A centimeter or so difference on a mute strip certainly is artless. Now 3/16" on a damper and you have a completely different sounding piano. That's art. I guess I'm to assume that changing placement by a centimeter or so is enough to know if nothing changes that wasn't the problem. Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Nossaman" <RNossaman@KSCABLE.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2001 10:33 AM Subject: Re: maddening dampers to mute strips > >Good points. Slop in the guide bushing allowing the damper to "float". > > Is this the reason, assuming that there is one beyond random accident, that > so many dampers are sluggish from excessive side pressure? The side > pressure being intended to compensate for guide bushing wear? > > > > This > >relates to the muting process while tuning. A lot of bleed through can > >really be confusing to a new tuner. Thicker strips distort the string > >changing bridge tension and the way the hammer hits the string you are > >trying to tune. Also, it can cause maddening damper damage. (shudder). What > >would be the ideal mute strip? Is a thick strip woven close to the capo bar > >effective enough or should I stay close to hammer line with a strip that > >causes minimal sideways deflection? Is there a ratio for placement based on > >the distance from strike point to capo bar? On a grand, from strike point to > >bridge? Keith > > Or possibly something so artless and Philistine as simply moving your low > tech mute strip fore or aft a centimeter or so until it quiets down. It > could probably be set up in a spreadsheet to generate the properly high > number of decimal places of placement accuracy, but you'd have to take > longitudinal modes and pinblock flange bedding into account too. It's > nearly always more complicated than it looks or sounds. Under the > circumstances, listening and strip sliding seems to work pretty well when > no one is watching. > > Ron N >
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