This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Wiw The information I referred to in my previous post of calculating bore = distance is very common information these days and a method for avoiding = a major ooops in a rebuilding job. After 30 years of doing hammer replacement I have had many bad = outings as you suggest. Once I did as you prescribed on a old Kimball = grand and the original bore was so short the shanks over centered by = more than a 1/4 of an inch! Factories make a lot of mistakes and so do = hammer prepper. I got weary of crappy and to tight boring which made = installation difficult. I realize some are doing that more accurately = these days but I'll still bore my own. Also for example with Stwys and others but Stwys are what I check most = often the string heights can vary by 2 or three m.m in the tenor treble = yet Steinway and others will send you a standard bore hammer of 2 = 1/8"bass bore and 113/ 16". However the tenor sections can be 2 to 3 mm = higher in the mid tenor than in the treble and can also be sloped one = way or another. The bass as well can have similar problems. Some older = Stwy B's and D's had bore lengths of 2&3/8" bass and close to 2 " tenor = treble so if standard bore hammeres were used in this application = regulation,geometry and touchweight problems would be a big deal to your = client and your reputation. The real question is how accurate do you want your regulation to be? = If you install hammers that over strike from the git go you've already = undermined one of the many reasons for replacing the old worn out = hammers in the first place which is regulation , geometry and touoch = weight do to over centering. In uprights this is less critical and original bore intentions less = easy to measure. Usually my rule o f tumb is to observe the bore lengths = of not 1 and 88. Note one will always be close to original and note 88 = can be determined by adding 3mm above the wood molding. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Wimblees@AOL.COM=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2001 7:25 AM Subject: Re: Fw: hammer replacement In a message dated 6/28/01 12:03:58 AM Central Daylight Time,=20 Erwinpiano@email.msn.com writes:=20 It's o.k. to send them hammers and shanks for angles maybe but string = heights and center pin heights vary as do the accuracy of the original = boring. Measure the center pin height from then Measure string height = in=20 each section.Subtract center pin height from string height and it' = that=20 simple and no disapointments later. Ding it the other way is a good = way to=20 possibly compound errors and end up with a mess that won't regulate! = Take=20 measurements.=20 =20 Dale=20 I have replaced hundreds of sets of hammers in my 25 years of = rebuilding, and=20 I have never sent Schaff, or Renner, or any other hammer making company, = the=20 measurements you state, and I have never had a problem. Furthermore, I = have=20 never heard anyone mention at a seminar or convention that these = measurements=20 need to be sent in order to duplicate a set of hammers. Apparently you = must=20 have had a bad experience once, and therefore assume that this is the = only=20 way to order a set of hammers.=20 I would like to hear others with similar experiences. Have I been lucky = for=20 25 years, or is Dale sending information that is not necessary?=20 Willem=20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/fe/70/8f/cf/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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