Overs action/Steinway hammers

[David Love]

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Dale:

If you have Ron's handout and can either email or fax it to me I would =
be most appreciative.  My phone/fax number is 415 661 3666.  You have my =
email.

By the way.  In a conversation I had with John Patton, he suggested that =
he would probably not use a 3:1 solution in the lower part of the piano. =
 If you do, keep it well away from the strike point.=20

Next time you use a set, try this on an experimental hammer in the tenor =
if the set seems a bit soft.  Turn the hammer on it side and put a few =
drops (5-6) of lacquer at the top of the moulding/underfelt letting it =
creep to within 1/8" from the strike point.  You can use 4:1 in the =
tenor and maybe 5:1 in the bass depending on the set.  Do it on both =
sides.  It firms up the tone nicely by just hardening the inner core of =
the hammer.  If you then need a little more bite at impact, use the 5:1 =
on the strikepoint.  There's usually a pronounced break around note 54 =
where the tone drops off suddenly.  I try to use 3:1 from there up and =
just put it right over the top.  Below that I'm trying to raise the =
level somewhat less so that the tone is more balanced throughout the =
piano.  If I need additional applications in the upper range(rare that =
it will be needed in the tenor and bass), I go to a slightly lighter =
solution for the second application.  It seems to penetrate better and =
the goal is still to get it to the core, not just building up on top. =20

My experience with lacquering these hammers tells me that unless the =
lacquer gets under the strike point it doesn't do much.  In the tenor =
you can get it there directly by lacquering from the side and it reduces =
the amount you have to saturate the hammer.  In the upper range, because =
there's less felt, if you do it from the side it quickly reaches the =
strike point anyway.  Although, in actual practice I make the first pass =
lacquering =20

David

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