Mark Yours is the same technique I've used on these blocks. Works well! Paul Chick ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Story <mark.story@mail.ewu.edu> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 1:03 PM Subject: RE: 4-piece Chickering Pinblock > I do it in two pieces. Fit the upper (smaller) part the best you can, then > the lower piece. Use your best glue (I use resorcinol glue - the purple, two > part stuff) and screw it together (using the existing plate screws) in > place. These blocks are fit in so many different ways, I don't think the > standard for fit is as high as it is for a conventional block. Still, > because it's such an inconsequential step, I still fit the finished block > with thickened poly resin, just as I do with my conventional blocks. > > > Mark Story. RPT > Eastern Washington University > Cheney, Washington > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org] On Behalf > Of MikeToc440@AOL.COM > Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 10:44 PM > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: 4-piece Chickering Pinblock > > List, > > I am to give an estimate on replacing the pinblock of a 9' Chickering. This > is the four-piece, full fit type. Though I've done a Chickering block once > before, it wasn't my most efficient work. Do any of you rebuilder-types > have a procedure for this one, or even a few tips? Should the ledge on each > block section be cut out of one block (using a router table, as I did > before) > or should each section be of 2 thinner blocks, fitted, then glued together? > Best block material? Price of job as a % (multiple) of normal pinblock job? > Thanks in advance, > > Michael Tocquigny > > MikeToc440@aol.com >
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