brass rail

[Joe & Penny Goss]

Mel and Joe,
Thanks for the responce.
Nope will not work, either idea.
The fork of the damper straddles the screw. covering it.
I had to remove the hammer spring rail. The screws were then enough in sight
to get a half turn on a screw before having to be moved over in the slot. On
one damper it was necessary to cut some wood off the inside of the yolk sort
of like lowering the pitch of a tuning fork.
I did not remove the brass rail,  as in my last post, there were lots of
screws that attatched it to the action. Once good light was available, they
could be seen <G>
Joe Goss
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "MEL" <pulsifer@drtel.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: brass rail


> OOA 17:14 -060004/24/01 Joe & Penny Goss wrote:
> >It looks as though one needs to remove the hammer spring rail and
> >take out the dampers and hammers in a section then the dampers will
> >be able to move forward enough to  get a screw driver on the screw.
>
> A screwdriver with appx. 1/8" blade and 6 to 8" shank will allow you
> to loosen the screw without removing anything else. The small brass
> plate to witch the spring is attached also retains the damper lever
> center pin in place.  As I recall, about 2 - 3 turns of the screw
> will allow the center pin to clear the clamp and you can remove the
> damper lever. Now it's easy to replace the damper spring. Start the
> little screw, 1.5 to 2 turns is enough. The clamp should be loose
> enough to allow the damper lever center pin to be inserted into the
> grove then re-tighten the screw.
>
> I just got some of these damper springs from APSCO so they are available.
>
> Does anyone have extra, know a source for, some Kimball damper levers
> to go with my new springs? I need 6 of them.
>
> CWO4 Melvin A. Pulsifer USCG (Ret)
> pulsifer@drtel.net
>
> Mel's Piano Service
> P.O. Box 391
> LaMoure, ND 58458