Fw: Fw: More bridge recapping questions

[Erwinpiano]

    Dave and list
I do understand the reticence about using cold hide glue and I'm not trying
to convince anyone to use it.  However having worked with it for along time
the most important thing to know is, that as stated previously on this
list,is the glue should be fresh as evidenced by it's expiration date.  It
should also be discarded or used for less critical applications  if it has
set around in extreme temperatures.
  I will say that using a fresh bottle and adequate dry time it does harden
up to be as hard as or almost as hard as the hot variety. This hardness
comes faster in the dry or hot seasons than the wet ones as you might
imagine. Closed up joints especially need more drying time as there is no
air circulation.
   I used an old bottle to glue up a set of hammers once and found later
that the joints later were not sound and came loose. This is the only
failure I'm aware of. I payed more attention to the dates and such after
that!
  The other thing I like about hide glues of both varieties is that it is
reversible if necessary and I like the open working time.
   There are no perfect glues but many that work well within there own given
parameters.



----- Original Message -----
From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos@hotmail.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: More bridge recapping questions


> There is much debate about whether so called cold hide glue is worth using
> at all.  Both hide glues are hygroscopic but cold hide is much more so and
> is compromised more easily.  I don't use it.  I don't find that hot hide
> glues have a problem with drills as mentioned.
>
> David Love
>
>
> >From: "Erwinpiano" <Erwinpiano@email.msn.com>
> >Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org
> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> >Subject: Fw: More bridge recapping questions
> >Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:32:54 -0700
> >
> >   Hi Spalding's
> >
> >I find drilling into any thermo plastic glue a sticky wicket but
especially
> >bridge caps and repairs and the way it clogs up little tiny drill bits
> >forever. I've used cold hide for bridge cap glue up and as you say there
is
> >some stickiness but I find epoxy worse when I've tried it.
> >  I'm going back to hot hide diluted with urea to retard the gel a bit.
> >I'm
> >guessing that the sticky wicket syndrome will disappear.
> >    David Love ,I don't glue in shoe pegs just pound them in and cut em
> >flush.
> >
> >    Best
> >
> >    Dale Erwin
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mike and Jane Spalding" <mjbkspal@execpc.com>
> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> >Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 5:13 AM
> >Subject: Re: More bridge recapping questions
> >
> >
> > > David,
> > >
> > > I wouldn't use hide glue here, or anywhere that the function is to
fill
> > > voids where you will be drilling or machining later.  When the hot
drill
> >bit
> > > gets into the hide glue you'll have a sticky mess.  Epoxy, thin enough
> >to
> > > wick into any cracks, with or without shoe pegs, seems to work best.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: David Love <davidlovepianos@hotmail.com>
> > > To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 12:42 AM
> > > Subject: More bridge recapping questions
> > >
> > >
> > > > After removing an old bridge cap and assuming you are not planing
down
> >the
> > > > bridge below the level of the old bridge pin holes, what is the best
> > > > method/material to plug the old holes prior to recapping?  Shoe pegs
> >and
> > > > hide glue?
> > > >
> > > > David Love
> > > > _________________________________________________________________
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> > >
> >
>
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