This week (and it's only Thursday) I have been called out to tune three un-tunable (upright) pianos which the owners indicated on the phone were tunable, even though they were 80 to 100 years old. When I arrived at the homes, the pianos were wrecks with the expected rust, corrosion, and rot. To these owners, a tuning meant a rebuild. In each case, I left without tuning. How can I avoid this in the future? Is there a number of years-old that you will not go out for a tuning? How do I weed out the tunable pianos from the un-tunable pianos on the phone? Phil Ryan Miami Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos@hotmail.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 1:38 AM Subject: Re: Pin fluids..was-- Bridge caps > > Jim: > > Would you then consider using varnish as driving fluid on a restringing job > where you are reusing the old block? With what effect? > > David Love > > >From: JIMRPT@AOL.COM > >Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org > >To: pianotech@ptg.org > >Subject: Pin fluids..was-- Bridge caps > >Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 01:00:58 EDT > > > > > >In a message dated 4/03/2001 10:41:07 PM, Dale wrote: > > > ><<"I've wondered about driving fluids > > > >as well but have not used them.">> > > > >Dale a Cuba Libre ain't bad on a warm day and...... it sho makes working > >less > >painful! :-) > > > > Undoubtedly you will get several "opinions" in this thread so here's > >mine....OK? > >A good pin driving aid will contain 3(?) qualities and these are: > >1.) ease of use/application. > >2.) consistency of results. > >3.) aid in stringing effort. > > > > My favorite weapon of choice is Spar Varnish because it is: > >1.) easy to use/apply. (little dab'll do you and too much won't effect long > >term results. > >2.) gives verrry consistent results. > >3.) makes stringing sooo much easier (particuarly if you use a T handle > >like > >I do. > > > > The varnish acts as a sealer/lubricant while it is still wet and as a > >sealer/ snap retardant when it is dry. Turning pins in a wet pinblock > >treated > >with varnish is aprox 1/4 to 1/3 easier than turning them when the block is > >dry. > > > > > > <<"I'm using buldoc/stwy blocks in all > > > >stwys/Rebuilds and the pins are hard to drive and no matte how consistently > > > >I drill I.E. same speed,pressure and air cooling there will always be some > > > >tortional inconsistencies. That being said I mostly like how they tune.">> > > > > The five ply blocks you are using are very good blocks...but like most > >things they do have some drawbacks chief of which is what mayyyy be termed > >soft spotitis. > > This happens when two or more layers of the pinblock have 'soft' spots > >lined > >up vertically. The result of this is that when you drill the holes they > >will > >be a trifle larger in the 'soft spots' then in the relatively 'harder' rest > >of the block...........also these 'soft spots' will not hold a pin with the > >same force as will the 'harder' portions of the plank....this results in > >your > >"tortional inconsistencies'. Just the way things are with these > >blocks...don't mean they are 'bad'. Short of hand picking ass'td size pins > >for preselected holes I don't know any cure for this symptom. > > > >In a 5 ply block with two soft spots together this "spotitis" will effect > >aprox. 40% of the pin length...or if the first 4 layers are all that are > >contacted it will effect aprox. 50% of the pin length....how much this will > >effect the "inconsistencies" you are speaking of is relative to the rest of > >the block. > > > > If'n y'all likes the way dey tune, and all the other parameters of > >stability, etc. are there, then keep on keepin on. > > > > > > <<"My question is this. For those of you who are using maple blocks and > > > >driving fluids ,do you think it affects tuning smoothness, changes > >tortional > > > >values or is it just a way to make driving a pin easier. My > >srtinger(Terry) > > > >is a little five ft. Italian gal and although plenty fiesty would > >appreciate > > > >any help in the driving each new One ought pins into freshly bored > >maple.:>> > > > > Varnish treated blocks definitely have fewer 'snappers' than do non > >treated > >blocks,.....in my experience. Driving in the pins is much easier and > >setting > >coils, applying tension and chipping are all easier by 'far' while the > >varnish is still at least damp. > >1/0 pins??? Why do you use 1/0 pins? In my opinion 1/0 pins add a measure > >of > >flagpoling/twistyness that I don't like, but if there is a gooood reason > >for > >using them I might reconsider my thoughts here. > > > > > > > > <<"Also if driving fluid changed slightly the pin torque and allowed for > > > >smoother rendering that would be fine.">> > > > > Dale, treating or not treating the pins/pinblock has absolutely nothing > >to > >do with string rendering other than making the tuning pin easier to > >manipulate. However that being said I will contradict myself and say that > >having to fight the pin less will allow you to 'feel' the rendering much > >better....or is that what you meant? > > > > > > > ><<"The finest tuning piano in the world > > > >is an old steinway thats never yet been restrung. You know the kind ,well > > > >preserved and unadulterated. The pin torque is so even and the tuning ends > > > >up being so stable because the pin doesn't wrestle with the tuner!!!!">> > > > >Betcha a LARGE cup of coffee that this pinblock was treated with varnish > >during stringing...wanna bet? :-) > >My opinion. > >Jim Bryant (FL) > >p.s. Do a test for yourself....take a scrap piece of pinblock....drill > >three > >holes... > >drill one hole 17/64ths and two holes 1/4"..............(adjust for your > >favorite sizing/feel).....in the 17/64 and first 1/4 hole..........install > >2/0 pins to the level where they would normally be after chipping/coil > >setting/tapping.......in the last 1/4 hole (for the test only) wet a small > >piece/wad of paper towel with spar varnish and push through the pinblock > >with > >a hammer shank...install the pin to the same level as the other two pins(be > >sure and mark the holes as to which is what:). Immediatetly try turning > >the > >pins starting with the 17/64 and ending with the treated pin.......wait a > >few > >hours and try turning the pins again....set the test aside for a week or so > >and then try the pins again...let us know what you find OK? > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > >
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC