Pin fluids..was-- Bridge caps

[David Love]

Jim:

Would you then consider using varnish as driving fluid on a restringing job 
where you are reusing the old block?  With what effect?

David Love

>From: JIMRPT@AOL.COM
>Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org
>To: pianotech@ptg.org
>Subject: Pin fluids..was-- Bridge caps
>Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 01:00:58 EDT
>
>
>In a message dated 4/03/2001 10:41:07 PM, Dale wrote:
>
><<"I've wondered about driving fluids
>
>as well but have not used them.">>
>
>Dale a Cuba Libre ain't bad on a warm day and...... it sho makes working 
>less
>painful! :-)
>
>  Undoubtedly you will get several "opinions" in this thread so here's
>mine....OK?
>A good pin driving aid will contain 3(?) qualities and these are:
>1.) ease of use/application.
>2.) consistency of results.
>3.) aid in stringing effort.
>
>  My favorite weapon of choice is Spar Varnish because it is:
>1.) easy to use/apply. (little dab'll do you and too much won't effect long
>term results.
>2.) gives verrry consistent results.
>3.) makes stringing sooo much easier (particuarly if you use a T handle 
>like
>I do.
>
>  The varnish acts as a sealer/lubricant while it is still wet and as a
>sealer/ snap retardant when it is dry. Turning pins in a wet pinblock 
>treated
>with varnish is aprox 1/4 to 1/3 easier than turning them when the block is
>dry.
>
>
>  <<"I'm using buldoc/stwy blocks in all
>
>stwys/Rebuilds and the pins are hard to drive and no matte how consistently
>
>I drill I.E. same speed,pressure and air cooling there will always be some
>
>tortional inconsistencies.  That being said I mostly like how they tune.">>
>
>  The five ply blocks you are using are very good blocks...but like most
>things they do have some drawbacks chief of which is what mayyyy be termed
>soft spotitis.
>  This happens when two or more layers of the pinblock have 'soft' spots 
>lined
>up vertically. The result of this is that when you drill the holes they 
>will
>be a trifle larger in the 'soft spots' then in the relatively 'harder' rest
>of the block...........also these 'soft spots' will not hold a pin with the
>same force as will the 'harder' portions of the plank....this results in 
>your
>"tortional inconsistencies'. Just the way things are with these
>blocks...don't mean they are 'bad'. Short of hand picking ass'td size pins
>for preselected holes I don't know any cure for this symptom.
>
>In a 5 ply block with two soft spots together this "spotitis" will effect
>aprox. 40% of the pin length...or if the first 4 layers are all that are
>contacted it will effect aprox. 50% of the pin length....how much this will
>effect the "inconsistencies" you are speaking of is relative to the rest of
>the block.
>
>  If'n y'all likes the way dey tune, and all the other parameters of
>stability, etc. are there, then keep on  keepin on.
>
>
>    <<"My question is this. For those of you who are using maple blocks and
>
>driving fluids ,do you think it affects tuning smoothness, changes 
>tortional
>
>values or is it just a way to make driving a pin easier.  My 
>srtinger(Terry)
>
>is a little five ft. Italian gal and although plenty fiesty would 
>appreciate
>
>any help in the  driving each new One ought pins into freshly bored 
>maple.:>>
>
>  Varnish treated blocks definitely have fewer 'snappers' than do non 
>treated
>blocks,.....in my experience. Driving in the pins is much easier and 
>setting
>coils, applying tension and chipping are all easier by 'far' while the
>varnish is still at least damp.
>1/0 pins??? Why do you use 1/0 pins? In my opinion 1/0 pins add a measure 
>of
>flagpoling/twistyness that I don't like, but if there is a gooood reason 
>for
>using them I might reconsider my thoughts here.
>
>
>
>   <<"Also if driving fluid changed slightly the pin torque and allowed for
>
>smoother rendering that would be fine.">>
>
>  Dale, treating or not treating the pins/pinblock has absolutely nothing 
>to
>do with string rendering other than making the tuning pin easier to
>manipulate. However that being said I will contradict myself and say that
>having to fight the pin less will allow you to 'feel' the rendering much
>better....or is that what you meant?
>
>
>
><<"The finest tuning piano in the world
>
>is an old steinway thats never yet been restrung. You know the kind ,well
>
>preserved and unadulterated.  The pin torque is so even and the tuning ends
>
>up being so stable because the pin doesn't wrestle with the tuner!!!!">>
>
>Betcha a LARGE cup of coffee that this pinblock was treated with varnish
>during stringing...wanna bet? :-)
>My opinion.
>Jim Bryant (FL)
>p.s. Do a test for yourself....take a scrap piece of pinblock....drill 
>three
>holes...
>drill one hole 17/64ths and two holes 1/4"..............(adjust for your
>favorite sizing/feel).....in the 17/64 and first 1/4 hole..........install
>2/0 pins to the level where they would normally be after chipping/coil
>setting/tapping.......in the last 1/4 hole (for the test only) wet a small
>piece/wad of paper towel with spar varnish and push through the pinblock 
>with
>a hammer shank...install the pin to the same level as the other two pins(be
>sure and mark the holes as to which is what:).  Immediatetly try turning 
>the
>pins starting with the 17/64 and ending with the treated pin.......wait a 
>few
>hours and try turning the pins again....set the test aside for a week or so
>and then try the pins again...let us know what you find OK?
>
>

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