Bridge Pin/Epoxy Question

[Farrell]

Thanks Stan. Sounds like a great procedure. I will follow this exactly the
next time. I had already planed down the bridges, graphited them, and
re-notched them. I followed your system from that point. Kinda was a little
messy with the graphite already on, but not bad. The one drop of epoxy on
wire inserted into hole and drop on pin worked great. The collar was nice
because I could see that the tiny cracks appeared completely filled with
epoxy after cleaning up excess. It took me 4 hrs. to insert epoxy, put in
pins, pound to proper height, clean up excess epoxy, re-graphite bridge top,
and put a coat of laquer on top. Looks great, should work excellent & thanks
a million.

Terry Farrell
Piano Tuning & Service
Tampa, Florida
mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stan Kroeker" <stan@pianoexperts.mb.ca>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2000 12:36 PM
Subject: Re: Bridge Pin/Epoxy Question


> > My question is: What is the best way to get the epoxy into the bridge
pin
> > hole.
>
> Terry,
>
> Whenever we do a rebuild involving restringing (obviously!) we do the
> following to achieve precise and solid termination at the bridges:
>
> First, after removing bridge pins and noting pin sizes along the length
> of each bridge, we sand (or plane or scrape if you wish) the top of the
> bridge just to the bottom of the string grooves.  This is where the new
> strings will rest anyway and it is a real eye-opener to see how far
> forward of the pin holes the edge of the notch has crept over time.
>
> Since we always use the 1" pointed bridge pins, we usually have to drill
> the existing holes a little deeper, to achieve uniform pin projection
> without having to sand or file the pins. Then, with a >sharp< chisel, we
> re-cut all notches, exactly bisecting the pin holes of each unison.
>
> With gloved hands and new pins at the ready, we mix small batches of
> epoxy (West System) and using a short piece of thick music wire apply
> one drop at each pin hole (do a section at a time), then dip the tip of
> each pin in the epoxy, insert and drive to depth with a punch.  You now
> have a perfectly seated pin with a collar of epoxy around it.  Using an
> acid swab brush dipped in lacquer thinner, brush the excess epoxy down
> into the notch (mask off the soundboard to protect its finish).  This
> simultaneously cleans the pin and forms a light finish in the notches.
>
> Once epoxy has cured, use an artist brush to apply graphite to the top
> of the bridge.  If you want a 'like-new' cosmetic appearance, you can
> spray a light coat of lacquer over top of the pinned, graphited bridge
> cap.  Doesn't inhibit string rendering and looks great!
>
> This entire procedure was shared by Bill Spurlock in the PTJ and appears
> in one of the reprint books available from the home office.
>
> Regards,
>
> Stan Kroeker
> Registered Piano Technician
>