in-the-home boring jig

[bases-loaded@juno.com]

Hi Wally -

For cedar shanks, I have actually had very good success using the 7/32
bit w/ handle "free hand",  and allowing the harder maple head to "guide"
the bit into the softer cedar.

Mark Potter
bases-loaded@juno.com

On Wed, 26 Jan 2000 08:43:53 -0500 Wilsons <wilson53@MARSHALL.EDU>
writes:
> Tom,
>     I have used this method successfully most of the time for 
> extracting the
> embedded ends of snapped hammer shanks from the hammer.  There is a 
> situation
> in which it does not work well, however, and that is in the case of 
> old cedar
> shanks.  At least in the eastern part of the country, these old 
> cedar shanks
> seem to splinter rather than extract neatly.  I agree completely 
> that 95% of
> the time, this method of wallpaper remover, heat, and extraction are 
> the
> treatment of choice.  And for the other 5%, are there some 
> alternatives that
> work really well?
> 
> --Wally Wilson, RPT
>    Ravenswood, WV
>    Columbus, OH chapter
> 
> Tom Cole wrote:
> 
> > bases-loaded@juno.com wrote:
> > >
> > > I am looking for any ideas that will facilitate boring single 
> hammers in
> > > the customer's home when the shank has broken off bluntly right 
> below the
> > > hammer head (vertical pianos).
> >
> > Mark,
> >
> > The best Journal article on the subject appeared in the Feb. 89 
> issue
> > (Vertical Shank Replacment, by Fern Henry & Bill Spurlock). 
> Briefly, the
> > authors describe a way of removing the old shank by drilling a 
> hole in
> > the remaining shank to receive a drywall screw. After soaking the 
> hole,
> > the screw is heated to soften the glue and the screw and shank 
> part can
> > then be extracted with a shank extractor.
> >
> > The beauty of this method is that the hole you have just created 
> is
> > perfectly drilled. It just needs to be cleaned out with a 7/32" 
> drill.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > --
> > Thomas A. Cole, RPT
> > Santa Cruz, CA
> > mailto:tcole@cruzio.com
> 
>