steinway

[Jon Page]

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At 10:17 PM 01/14/2000 -0800, you wrote:
<snip>
>> #2...Tuning Pins:  I am considering the Diamond pins from 
>> Pianotek.  Blued is correct?  I don't think I want the nickel 
>> plated?
>
>Good pins.  Are you replacing the block?   If so,  the extra quality you
>will be paying for (consistency of diameter)  will help the final feel. 
>If repinning the old block,  the consistency of feel will be erratic so
>the pins won't matter as much.   ( Not as consistent size as Diamond
>brand).   I have no problem with Denro pins except that the bluing is
>only on the head.
>Dale Fox

I heard somewhere that it was better to cut the threads after the pin had
been blued for a better grip.

Before you install new pins, deglaze the holes with a gun barrel brush.
I use a brush for a .30 caliber in a drill. Also mic all pins. It is tedious
but once you realize the discrepancies you will have motivation.
What works best is a tension thickness gage which is a micrometer
which is spring loaded. This will enable you to turn the pin while it
is being read. Discard the oval pins, they are there.

For a 2/0 set I set up containers labeled: .279, .280, .281, .282, .283
and sort them. When stringing, the smaller diameters are for the high
treble and the larger for the low bass.  A more consist ant feel will be
the result. This was on the list a few years back and has proven itself
worthwhile.

Here's a thought to ponder: In the lowest bass, the core diameter is
the thickest. When 3 coils are made and the pin is driven in so the coil
is the same height off the plate as the treble, there is not as much pin
left in the hole. Granted it is small but with the tension it needs all the
help
it can get. I generally make only 2 coils on the single bass notes or use
a longer pin to aid the longevity of the tuning. More often is the case that
the lowest bass is the first to develop loose pins.

Regards,

Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
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