Return Springs on a Baldwin 243

[Lance Lafargue]

I agree with replacing the fake leather if that's what you have.  If it's
black or tan, it's no good.  I thought Baldwin stopped using it by 1980-ish,
though. The archives are full with methods of replacement.  Baldwin will
send you new fake stuff (free and better material than the old) and CA glue.
If you can't find the method in the archives let me know, I've done dozens
and there are some time saving techniques.

The tan stuff gets hard and both rough and smooth, the black gets powdery
and gummy.  Tan is easier to do.  I'd quote you some poetry, slam someone on
the list or drop a name, but gotta go...  %~) Good luck with it!

Lance Lafargue, RPT
Mandeville, LA
New Orleans Chapter, PTG
lancelafargue@bellsouth.net

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
Of J Patrick Draine
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 10:28 AM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: Return Springs on a Baldwin 243


>List,
>
>I have a piano teacher with a legitimate complaint about repetition
>on a 20 year-old Baldwin Studio Upright 243. The jack won't make it
>back under the butt until the key returns, and sometimes not even
>them. The butt and catcher leathers are also a synthetic which i
>would describe as 220 grit.
>

The hardened synthetic buckskin should certainly be replaced. There
are step by step procedures in the PTJournal and on the web.
How's the jack pinning? Wippen and hammer flange pinning? Is the jack
spring doing its job?
Last but not least, how's the key weigh-off? Newton has posted
ideal/acceptable gram specs for uprights, which I don't remember off
the top of my head.
A small key lead properly placed might be just what's needed, if the
other specs are within normal tolerances.

Patrick Draine