Installing grand backchecks

[Wimblees@AOL.COM]

In a message dated 8/30/00 2:57:22 AM Central Daylight Time, 
gharvey@netsource.co.nz writes:


Greame:

WB: Well, since I won't get there in time, and I really don't have the time 
this weekend any way, (I have a Steinway to complete and 8 pianos to tune in 
my church) I'll try to answer your questions by e-mail. 
 
GH: The new checks I've been supplied with are fitted to the wires already, 
and my query was how to install them complete without removing the wires. Is 
your method, using a soft faced hammer intended to tap the top of the check 
itself or just the wire?
 
WB. I was presuming you weare removing the backcheck and the wire from the 
key. I use the soft face hammer to install the new backchecks already on the 
wire.  
 
GH: The other issue of check height relates to a re-designed action, lowered 
hammer centre height etc etc, so the old check height may not be the best 
position, though could be a close guide. Sorry I didn't mention this before. 
(Pity, you could've stayed a bit longer in NZ to solve this one too)
 
 My thinking is that for the most efficient checking, the best situation is 
to have the most hammer tail surface area in contact.
 Therefore, if the ideal checking distance is say, 16 mm from the string then 
the top of the check could be set so tat the hammer tail is well down the 
check leather.
 
 Does this make sense?

WB:  Newton gave an answer to this. What I learned from Michael Travis is 
that the top of the backcheck should be even with the hammershank, when the 
hammer is regulated correctly. The angle of the backcheck will determine when 
the hammer will check. Although you should try to get the hammer to check at 
about 16 mm, (5/8"), what ever distance works best is the right distance, 
taking into consideration repetition rise, and checking on a soft blow. 

Willem