hot glue brush management

[Jon Page]

At 01:15 AM 08/21/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Jon wrote:
> > Because most of us don't like the glue running down the handle onto the
> > bristles when all we
> > need is a discrete application. When keeping the bristles in a shallow
> > 'pool' of glue, articulation is achieved.
> >
>Don't follow this. Why would glue run down the handle onto the bristles? 
>How did the glue get
>on the handle? Maybe your pot is too big and your glue is too thick. Maybe 
>you
>are using the wrong kind of brush, or trying to apply a small amount of 
>glue with a brush too
>big.

Are you saying that you mix a batch of glue so that it is no deeper than 1/4"?
I usually make an amount an inch or two deep so a brush which were resting 
on the
bottom_would_have glue on the handle.  For the applications which I use hot 
hide glue
I use an artist's brush. With the wooden wafer floating on top an 
articulate amount of
glue can be obtained in a quick manner.

> > Just try doing player pneumatic boards with a healthy dollop on glue
> > dripping off the end of your brush.
> >
>Please explain the parameters of a "player pneumatic board"....I don't 
>know what that is.

A player pneumatic board is a thin slat (average 1.5" x 5") onto which one 
needs to
glue rubberized cloth. If the glue were as thin as you recommend the cloth 
would not
remain adhered. The thickness of the slat is 3/16" and the glue needs to be 
judiciously
applied more towards the outside edge so that when the cloth is applied, 
the glue does
not ooze into the  interior which would cause premature failure of the 
cloth by rubbing on
a glue bead.

Likewise, when gluing player valve pouches (thin leather punchings) the 
glue line needs to
be 1/8" wide and of an amount so as not to ooze into the center.

A precise application of a glue consistency of warm honey, too thick by 
your standards.

When gluing the lager bellows cloth, double gluing is called for, this 
means applying cloth to
a glued edge and removing it and applying another coat of glue and 
replacing  the cloth and
running a warm iron over the edge to assure bonding. All the while being 
careful not to have
glue ooze onto the flexing area of the cloth inside this 'air tight' chamber.

Like I said:
> > It's application requirements . . .
> >
>If your glue is right, controlled application is not a problem with the 
>right type of brush.
>As said before, why create problems that need trick solutions like 
>floating blocks of wood,
>hanging brushes and styrofoam pellets, when it's easier not to create the 
>problems in the
>first place. These are all relics of trying to use proto-industrial hot 
>glue technique in a
>crafts setting.

Huh?

The largest brush I use is a 1/2" wide artist's brush. This would be for 
gluing the cloth
covered pneumatic boards to the rail and bellows edges.

Your application may vary,
Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
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