Bridge gain delamination

Farrell mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
Tue, 1 Aug 2000 22:54:52 -0400


Yes, but in this case Roger was making the assumption that there was a
bridge cap.....like in a Steinway......... "<I presume the bridge cap is not
cracked.>"

Terry Farrell
Piano Tuning & Service
Tampa, Florida
mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don" <drose@dlcwest.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination


> Hi Terry,
>
> Some grands don't have bridge caps. Therefore the vertical laminations are
> quite accesseable.
>
> At 11:21 AM 8/1/00 -0400, you wrote:
> >Roger: O Yee of Great Wisdom. I read these posts with great interest,
always
> >trying to learn about a situation before I run into it. In the post
below,
> >if the vertical laminations on the bridge have delaminated (I assume we
are
> >talking the main portion of the bridge below the bridge cap) and the
bridge
> >cap is not cracked, how do you get epoxy into and spread around in the
> >vertically delaminated areas - isn't the bridge cap covering all this,
> >rendering the delaminated area inaccessable???????
> >
> >Terry Farrell
> >Piano Tuning & Service
> >Tampa, Florida
> >mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Roger Jolly" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> >Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 10:35 PM
> >Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination
> >
> >
> >> Hi Patrick,
> >>                 I am assuming that the splits are only in the vertical
> >> laminations.
> >> I have successfully repaired a number of Baldwin vertically laminated
> >> bridges with separations.
> >>
> >> You need a few cabinet makers wooden handscrews. ( the wooden clamps
with
> >> two handscrews)  The points of the jaws will allow you to slip down
> >between
> >> the side of the bridge and the plate.  Or you can modify them on a band
> >saw
> >> so that you can get a good grip on the sides of the bridges..
> >>
> >> Remove enough strings to give you room to work.  Dry clamp the
offending
> >> area and see if you can draw the split together, usually no problem.
> >>
> >> Remove the bridge pins that have hair line cracks.
> >>
> >> I use West System thin epoxy. Swab the pin holes, and the split.
Install
> >> new bridge pins.
> >> Tighten clamps.  Clean excess with acetone.  Leave for 24hrs to cure.
> >>
> >> If you have not used wooden handscrews. You need to practice a little
> >> before you start.  They have a good deal of clamping power once you get
> >> used to them, and are less prone to marking or denting your work.
> >>
> >> Replacing the bridge pins is a personal fetish for this type of repair.
> >But
> >> the pin will act like a pump and fill your small cracks from the
bottom.
> >>
> >> I presume the bridge cap is not cracked.
> >>
> >> Hope this is of help.
> >>
> >> Roger
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> At 11:57 AM 31/07/00 -0400, you wrote:
> >> >Dear List:
> >> >I just returned from a piano evaluation, for a customer looking to buy
a
> >> (32 year
> >> >old) small model 350 Kawai grand, walnut veneer, for $4500. Everything
> >> looked AOK
> >> >EXCEPT:
> >> >the bridge gain (cf. Mason, he also calls it the bridge core; I'd call
it
> >the
> >> >bridge body) is separating along the diagonal joint 3-4 notes above
the
> >> >tenor/treble break. There's minor cracking of the bridge surface at
the
> >> bridge
> >> >pins, but there's clearly been some glue joint failure at the joint in
> >the
> >> body of
> >> >the bridge (the sides of the bridge are no longer flush, the joint
line
> >is
> >> too
> >> >prominent). No tonal deficiencies because of it (yet).
> >> >I'm (optimistically) thinking I could fix this in the home by running
> >> screws with
> >> >washers through the separated parts, soak epoxy into the slight but
real
> >> >separation, etc. I'm hoping that with 2-3 sessions the bridge should
be
> >AOK.
> >> >Have any of you had success with this kind of repair on other Asian
> >pianos
> >> (I've
> >> >seen this as a problem area on all of their long bridges)?
> >> >Or should I tell my customer to back out of the deal?
> >> >Comments, Jim Jon Ron Roger et al?
> >> >
> >> Roger Jolly
> >> Saskatoon, Canada.
> >> 306-665-0213
> >> Fax 652-0505
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> Regards,
> Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T.
> Tuner for the Saskatchewan Centre of the Arts
> drose@dlcwest.com
> http://donrose.htmlplanet.com/
>
> 3004 Grant Rd.
> REGINA, SK
> S4S 5G7
> 306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner
>
>



This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC