Hi Jim, It was less distance. That is why I was thinking of redrilling a new hole and rebushing , closer to the 'cutaway'. The damper is sitting out too far compared, to the rest. Previously I had bent the wire & repositioned the head. I used a thicker cloth on the rod, rather than bending the spoon, so that the damper would work with the pedal I had also tried the elongation of the hole. I was just wondering what fixes other people had tried. Thanks again to all. Regards, John M. Ross Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada harvey wrote: > Um, I had this experience only once, John. It was a big ol' upright like > you said. Unfortunately, I forgot the work-around, but it was either a > junkbox part from another upright, or a kludge of some sort. > > Regardless, I'd be more inclined to try one of the other suggestions > already mentioned, i.e., roll your own flanges from scratch, move/modify > the slot for the action rail, remove material from the back and so on. > > Otherwise, if you need more distance from damper to rail (and I'm having a > tough time with perspective at the moment), could you not work from the > 'back' end of an upright damper flange instead of the pinned side? Seems > like it would be easier to plug & fill everything behind the pinned area; > then drill a new screw hole and "move" the slot, rather than working with > new cp holes, rebushing, etc. Could you not use the business end of a > commonly available upright flange, then cut/glue an extension portion from > yet another flange? > > Sorry if I'm not "seeing" this right. > > Jim Harvey, RPT > > At 10:51 PM 10/22/99 -0300, you wrote: > [cut] > >Has anyone tried, drilling the holes in flange for the pin in a different > place > >and rebushing the hole. Possibly removing the bushing cloth and filling the > >origional hole with epoxy. > >Oh yes, on some of the answers, I don't think that the people realized that it > >was for a damper flange on a large upright.
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