Hi List, I wonder what would happen, if we put the rail in an electric oven, and went to the self clean cycle? Regards, John M. Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: <BSimon1234@AOL.COM> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 1999 8:14 AM Subject: Re: Brass Rail Repairs > Mr. Cole: > > I thought the information you provided about annealing brass was just great, > and I am sure that sometime in the future I will follow your instructions and > do it in some project. Thanks for the experimentation and the write-up. > > I was wondering, however, why the piano companies did not anneal the original > rails. As you have shown, they easily could have, and I cannot imagine that > they did not know about it. Do you think that over time continuous impact > stresses from playing might bend the annealed tabs out of line? You are > gaining a ductility and losing hardness. Do you forsee any downside risk? > > I have not yet duplicated a rail on my mill, but I always thought that should > I need to do so I would try to use copper, hoping that it would be stronger, > and get away from the brass annealing question. It would be easier to work > than steel, but still be a step up in longevity from the brass, which I am > sure was used because of cost and ease of cutting. > > Sincerely, > > Bill Simon > Phoenix > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > <<This is a follow-up to the 1902 Kimball upright brass rail repair job. A > few days back, Bill Schlipf had ridden up on his white horse and laid a > perfect set of same-vintage, double-rail beauties on my doorstep. It was > amazing to see not a sign of breakage anywhere. Lurking in the back of > my mind, though, was the thought that they probably would start breaking > tongues eventually and that needed to be addressed. > > I had already ordered new butt and damper plates. While I was awaiting > the shipment from Bill, I spoke with several people on the subject of > annealing brass, the upshot of which is that you can easily do it > yourself by holding each plate over the flame of a gas stove until it > starts to glow red a little bit, progressively moving from one end to > the other until the entire strip has had a chance to incandesce, however > briefly. I worked in dim light to be sure that I could see the glow. > > Before I annealed the "new" pieces, I experimented on one of the broken > ones. I treated only half of it and left the rest untreated as a > control. I also wanted to see if there was any danger of melting since I > heard that annealing and melting temps are not that far away. > > On the softened part, I could bend a tongue up at a 45 degree angle, > down to a 45 degree angle, then back to horizontal without any sign of > breakage. I did this on several tongues and saw vicegrip marks but no > sign of breakage. I then tried the same test on the unannealed part. The > tongues would start to break on the upward bend and would completely > break off at the downward bend. Holding the brass over the flame for a > long time did not cause the part to melt. However, if your stove > temperature is hotter or you are using some kind of a torch, it would be > wise to experiment on the old part first. > > I just reassembled the action today. Now I have some confidence that > this family heirloom will live a long life. > > This was an unusual situation, to be sure, but I thought the discoveries > I made about annealing might be of general interest. > > Tom > > -- > Thomas A. Cole, RPT > Santa Cruz, CA > mailto:tcole@cruzio.com > > >> > >
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