Ralph, Also be prepared for the back of the piano to have soft wood. Tee nuts or stove bolts will pull through to some extent until the wood is crushed. You will reach a stable crush point that may be enough. You can use big washers inside the stove bolts - they will pull in some too, but cover more area. You can rout out a mortise along the back for a piece of hardwood to fit behind the posts, then use the stove bolt or tee nut method. How much work do you want do do? It sounds like the separation in this piano is pretty minor (next fish story): Had a console with complete back separation last December - trim veneer hid the separation until I had performed the 1/2 step pitchraise. Top pulled forward enough that the dampers wouldn't lift (I can finally figure it out if there is enough evidence). Duh - good idea to check trim veneer to see if there is exposed piano peeking out behind it BEFORE the pitch raise begins. After pitch raise piano was amazingly within range of A440 - and the space between pinblock and posts/spacers was at least 1/2 inch, the entire length of the back. Alcoa aluminum plate too! I wasn't as generous as Steve, waited for authorization from the church before beginning repairs (still waiting) - so pulled tension down. Wonderful creaks and groans. This piano might go to that place Steve was talking about (previous water damage and church location might impact this). Bill Shull U of Redlands, La Sierra U Loma Linda, CA In a message dated 99-03-18 17:51:26 EST, you write: << have a client who owns a Starck console, circa 1965, that has developed a separation of the top of the frame (directly behind the pinblock). It's about 18 inches long and runs from C8 down to about C6. At its widest point, it's about 1/16th inch (or less) wide. >>
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC