Vertical Frame Separation

[Lance Lafargue]

To the previous posts I would only add the use of very thin epoxy.  I have
managed to get glue squeeze-out using both pipe and C-clamps combined. 
Careful not to clamp on the edges of the plate in case it breaks.  I have
used existing screw holes for the bolts, and drilled my own as I saw fit. 
It's not hard to drill through the plate and frame with the proper bit. 
Good luck.  
LANCE LAFARGUE, RPT
LAFARGUE PIANO SERVICES
New Orleans Chapter
Mandeville, LA.
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lafargue@iamerica.net

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> From: David Renaud <studiorenaud@qc.aibn.com>
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Re: Vertical Frame Separation
> Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 2:34 AM
> 
> ralphbl@mindspring.com wrote:
> 
> > I have a client who owns a Starck console, circa 1965, that has
developed a
> > separation of the top of the frame (directly behind the pinblock). It's
> > about 18 inches long and runs from C8 down to about C6. At its widest
point,
> > it's about 1/16th inch (or less) wide.
> 
> I'll take a stab at this one, done more then a few.
> 
> !!!FIRST!!!
> Double check for plate cracks, I've seen a few of these bend enough from
> separation as to cause serious cracks at the plate struts.
> 
> If plate is OK
> 
> Option one:  I use on cheaper piano that demands min. budget. Pour epoxy
>                    in the crack and clamp back as much as possible. I
have about
> 
>                    six like this in the field and have yet to see them
budge,
> use the
>                    best quality high strength epoxy you can get.
> 
> Option 2 (Better): Take one screw out at a time, while clamping for
support,
> drill
>               a hole straight through to the back, installing carriage
bolts.
> Glue
>               and tighten back as much as possible.
> 
> I say "as much as possible" because I've seen a couple separated so far,
> and so bad that I believed they had been that way for quite some time.
> I believed the wood had become warped distorted from years like that
> Sometimes it seems wiser to me to secure what is before you and not
> force it back. Some judicial dicernment is in order.
> 
> Your crack does not sound so serious, I would glue and clamp it back.
> 
> Comment on gluing with epoxy.
> As an experiment I took two 6 by 4 inch blocks of Bolduc pinblock
> , laid them side by side one full inch apart, built dams with tape
> and filled the cavity with epoxy. I never sanded the sides at all.
> When  cured I tried to get the pieces apart
> Never did succeed. I ended up using a sledge hammer against
> it in a clamp. The wood is broken but the glue still is firmly locked
> to the broken piece.
> 
> So... flame suit is on.......
> 
> 
>                                                    David Renaud
>                                                    RPT
>  Ottawa-Hull
>                                                    Canada