John, Steinway's use of a paraffin substance to treat the centers began sometime about 1910 or 1915, and continued - from what I can tell from the symptoms - until the Permafree actions were built in the early 60's. This includes all verticals except for the shorter verticals using the Pratt Read actions. Any tubular rail actions in that period will suffer from the residue of fungus. This fungus seems to enjoy the environment created by the factory treatment. Inspect the parts for a green residue, which in the worst case appears to be growing out of the bushing, but even when undectable may have already damaged the cloth (the removed centerpin is usually darker and has a slight residue; the removed cloth is full of the stuff. (I have seen similar symptoms in a more mild form in 60's Yamahas.) Steinway verticals are particularly symptomatic, because the actions are not as gravity-dependent. Often they sit for long periods unplayed, and the fungus siezes the momen (woops) center. (Frequently the wippens are not treated, or at least not so symptomatic, for some reason.) Usually funds are not as readily available for these actions to be replaced as on the grands. The generous application of Protek is the first choice; seems to last the longest for the least time and money investment. Before Protek came along we used various other solutions which were more temporary. The use of high heat to kill the fungus seems to have some success; the cloth has been damaged, however, and the heat seems to draw out the residue, so that you must repin the center. This approach sometimes renders the action servicable for many years. I believe Randy Woltz can be credited for this; he is convinced of its long term success. He uses an iron with a centerpin-like point, I believe, and quickly inserts and withdraws the point in the bushing, sizzling the fungus. A journal article by Randy appeared in the '80s. Years before this, Francis Mehaffey's zapper was similarly used, but on the existing centerpin in place; inevitably the pin immediately was loose and repinning was required. Randy's method was part of a repinning process which could be done quickly and efficiently. The most extensive repair - short of parts replacement - is complete rebushing and repinning. If this action is in very good condition, with surprisingly unworn hammers, this option might be viable (often the Steinway action has badly worn hammers, butt and catcher buckskin and centers). Here's a chance to master the Spurlock method. Some believe that the fungus will appear again, but that is not likely for decades. Be particularly careful handling the damper levers, because they are weak at the centerpin slot. Do not overtighten the screws (a loose screw, however, leads to the deterioration of the centerpin slot, which you don't want either). I have always tried to sell an action rebuild in this situation. Probably someone has addressed rebuilding Steinway actions on this list already; I can if you get to that point. The Steinway upright begs to be rebuilt, and when rebuilt is a high performance upright with excellent action response and a great dynamic and color range. My clients love their rebuilt Steinway verticals - one just last week expressed this sentiment when I serviced it. Other things you should look for when the Steinway action is not functioning include broken jack springs - they begin to break almost all at once sometimes, and you cannot always see a broken spring right away. Try to replace them all if there is a few are broken. Have fun! Bill Shull U of Redlands, La Sierra U Loma Linda, CA In a message dated 99-03-10 01:52:20 EST, you write: << Looked at an old Steinway upright today which has a few sluggish keys. Did some of the older Steinway uprights have problems with verdigris, or was that limited to grands? The customer says that the sluggishness of the keys varies with humidity, so if verdigris is not one of the causes, I know how to deal with humidity. Thanks for your input. This is the first old Steinway upright I've had to repair. John Formsma >>
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