Corfam removal help needed

[Joe & Penny Goss]

William,
Well written post.
One suggestion for you to try next time you have this repair.
If you have a steam generator available like SGT Steam.
Take the bridal straps off their wires so that the catchers are out of the
way and use the steam to first loosen the surface scum so that water can
soak in. Then using a needle bottle apply a mixture of wall paper remover
and water so that all the part to be removed is covered. Let soak 5 minutes
and use tweezers and the steam to remove the corfam.

If you are not familiar with SGT Steam You can get a look at the address
below.
http://www.primenet.com/~imatunr/
Joe Goss
----- Original Message -----
From: William J Schlipf <wjstuner@juno.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: Corfam removal help needed


> Clyde,  I've only done about 12 actions with this problem so I am not an
> expert.  But here is what works for me.
>
> 1.  Remove and number all butts.
> 2.  Pour 1/2 cup of water in a saucer for lightly soaking the catcher
> 3.  Carefully, sans bridle strap, dip the catcher in the water and let
> time do the work
> 4.  While waiting for the catcher corfam to loosen, use a razor-blade
> knife or a very sharp pocket knife and lift the corfam at the top closest
> to the catcher-shank.
> 5. Run the knife down into the slot on each side of the corfam
> 6.  Pull it off the butt with your fingers,  too hard? use some pliers.
> 7.  Use a hack saw blade 2 or 3 strokes in the slot to make sure little
> to no residue.
> 8.  Now the catchers are ready!  Use the knife on the lower corner on the
> curve and your thumb and the knife can lift off the corfam easily.  If
> not wet again and wait again.  Do something while you're waiting.  This
> time does not have to be a loose.
> 9.  I use the glue Baldwin supplies.  Some use tightbond or hide glue.
> Use the needle tip applicator they send too.  Get a thin drop in the slot
> and immediately stick a replacement piece in squarely.  Do this to all
> 88.
> 10.  Run another thin drop across the width, above the felt and hold the
> other end to the glue, but not too tight, lightly, for about 3 seconds.
> That part is done.
> 11. Gluing the catcher area-a thin drop on the curved under-side and
> apply escaine. After doing all 88 do the top of the catcher.  Apply the
> glue about 1/8 " from the top and hold lightly  ( you don't want it to
> soak thru the escaine )
> You're done!  Have plenty of travel paper for adjustments.
>
> It's going to take about 6 hours to do a nice, neat job.  Trim the
> escaine where it's over the edge.  I haven't had any fall off, or turn up
> hard from too much glue.  I usually have about 1/3 of the bottle left
> when the job is done.
>
> Hope this helps!
> Bill Schlipf  Bloomington, IL
> wjstuner@juno.com
>
> On Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:34:24 -0500 Clyde Hollinger <cedel@supernet.com>
> writes:
> >Friends,
> >
> >I need some fast advice.  I have here at home a Baldwin action with
> >the
> >really wood-hard Corfam on both the catchers and the butts.  I am
> >having
> >trouble getting the stuff off.  Is there any better way to do this?
> >
> >I am following Rob Kiddell's technical document on this job.  He says
> >start at a corner of the catcher with a knife, then peel it off with a
> >pliers.  The corfam rips before I get to the other end of it, and of
> >course I run the good chance of slicing my finger before I finish
> >doing
> >this 176 times.
> >
> >I also tried something I saved off the list by "Marvin" who said it
> >just
> >falls off with 409.  I don't know how long one is to wait after
> >soaking
> >the Corfam, but so far this hasn't worked, either.  Hasn't even made a
> >difference.
> >
> >Since I use wallpaper remover to get old key bushings out, I am about
> >to
> >give this a try.  There should be a better way to get this stuff off.
> >Please help!  (desperate tone of voice)
> >
> >Thank you,
> >Clyde Hollinger
> >
>
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