Old Knabe Pinblocks

[Bill Kidd]

Brian Trout wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I have a job in the shop waiting for me right now.  It's a Knabe grand, 7'4" I think, late 1800's, with a full plate.  The pinblock is sloped, 
and also curves
> 
> The pinblock is to be replaced.  I guess what I need is some advice as to how to attack the beast.  I want to do it right.  The main problem I 
seem to run into
> 
> Have any of you come up with a better way to do a pinblock replacement on these?
> 
> A few thoughts came to mind.
> 
> 1)  Use a saw to cut out the curved / sloped part of the block, and duplicate that leaving the stretcher and case intact.  I've never done it 
before, so it wou
> 
> 2)  Make an attempt at routing / chiseling out large areas of the pinblock in such a way as to do a very large 'inlay' of several sections 
of pinblock material
> 
> 3)  Tear the bloody thing apart as carefully as I can and duplicate it.  I have been down this road before, and there's a lot of case repair to 
be done.
> 
> I'm not convinced that to use a bunch of plugs would be a good long term repair.  This isn't one we're cutting corners on, so to speak.  It's 
getting the works
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian Trout
> Quarryville, Pa.
> btrout@desupernet.net
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> Hi All,
> 
> I have a job in the shop waiting for me right now.  It's a Knabe
> grand, 7'4" I think, late 1800's, with a full plate.  The pinblock is
> sloped, and also curves from bass to treble.  If you've seen one, you
> know what I'm talking about.
> 
> The pinblock is to be replaced.  I guess what I need is some advice as
> to how to attack the beast.  I want to do it right.  The main problem
> I seem to run into is that to remove the pinblock completely, it's
> almost impossible without tearing off the top front parts of the
> case.  (The pinblocks I've seen like this one were screwed in before
> the case assembly was finished, and not intended to be removed.)
> 
> Have any of you come up with a better way to do a pinblock replacement
> on these?
> 
> A few thoughts came to mind.
> 
> 1)  Use a saw to cut out the curved / sloped part of the block, and
> duplicate that leaving the stretcher and case intact.  I've never done
> it before, so it would be a new experience.  Since it's a full plate,
> it would be pretty much invisible, but I'm not sure it would be
> right.  ?
> 
> 2)  Make an attempt at routing / chiseling out large areas of the
> pinblock in such a way as to do a very large 'inlay' of several
> sections of pinblock material.  Haven't done this one either.
> 
> 3)  Tear the bloody thing apart as carefully as I can and duplicate
> it.  I have been down this road before, and there's a lot of case
> repair to be done.
> 
> I'm not convinced that to use a bunch of plugs would be a good long
> term repair.  This isn't one we're cutting corners on, so to speak.
> It's getting the works.  New board, new bridges, new block, much
> action work, complete refinishing (beautiful rosewood)...
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian Trout
> Quarryville, Pa.
> btrout@desupernet.net
> 

Brian:
In 1990 I rebuild an 1895 Knabe that was just as you describe. Sloped, 
delaminating pinblock with the case built around the block.  I used the 
Epo-tek 301 treatment, which you are probably familiar with.  I think I 
drilled with 2/0 drill and used 3/0 pins. I have tuned it yearly since 
and the pins are as tight as a new Baldwin. If I get another with 
similiar block I will do the same procedure again, but probably use 2/0 
pins or drill with 3/0 drill for 3/0.

Bill