Heavy action on Steinway "L"

[Greg Newell]

Paul,
    Thank you for the post! I have tried some of these things you listed but
not all. The things I tried had little result. I guess I'll just have to keep
trying.
            Greg Newell

"Paul S. Larudee" wrote:

> Greg Newell wrote:
> >
> > Not only would I  have to add too much weight , there's no where to put
> > them! I can't even see where I could add 1-2 more anywhere in the bass!!
> > Any suggestions?
> >     In closing, for those of you who read my last post, I do want to
> > learn. Can any of you point me to recent journal articles that may be of
> > help? Do any of you experienced with this have any input about my
> > specific situation? Thanks in advance for your help!!!  I this list
> > great or what?!?
> >                         regards,
> >                         Greg Newell
>
> Here's a post I placed 3/24/99 which may be of help.  You might want to
> check some of the other posts around the same date.
>
> Paul S. Larudee, RPT
> Richmond, CA
>
> Rogerio Cunha wrote:
> >
> > We're repeatedly encountering key-balancing problems when restoring
> > Steinway grand pianos made in Hamburg in the 40's and 50's.
> >
> > Right now we're finishing a German B model from 1957, which received
> > new Renner hammers (complete) and new repetitions. After all due
> > regulations and lubrications, the keys only start moving down, in
> > average, with a 70-gram mass on top of it.
> >
> > Considering there isn't much room for additional lead, and, according
> > to our past experience, if you insist and lead the keys anyway to 47
> > grams you end up with a reasonable weight, but with a strange touch (the
> > keyboard gets lazy, like you're playing a "rubber action"), so we're
> > wondering WHAT CAN BE DONE to restore the ideal balance of 47g weight
> > and responsive touch."
> > ROGERIO CUNHA - IC MEMBER OF THE GUILD
> The new hammers are probably heavier than the originals.  You need to
> either use lighter hammers or reduce the weight (mass) of the ones you
> have.  Some ways to do this are
>
> 1) taper the hammers (mainly in the tails),
> 2) slim the tails (remove excess material),
> 3) widen the arc from the concave side so that it reaches almost to the
> bore hole,
> 4) trim material from edges of the inside of the arc by creating a
> triangular or "bicycle seat" cross section,
> 5) drill small holes along the center of the molding above the bore
> hole, and
> 6) remove material from the sides of the shank itself near the hammer.
>
> Whatever you remove will reduce the keyweight by five times as much.
>
> Paul S. Larudee, RPT
> Richmond, CA