Heavy action on Steinway "L"

[Paul S. Larudee]

Greg Newell wrote:
> 
> Not only would I  have to add too much weight , there's no where to put
> them! I can't even see where I could add 1-2 more anywhere in the bass!!
> Any suggestions?
>     In closing, for those of you who read my last post, I do want to
> learn. Can any of you point me to recent journal articles that may be of
> help? Do any of you experienced with this have any input about my
> specific situation? Thanks in advance for your help!!!  I this list
> great or what?!?
>                         regards,
>                         Greg Newell

Here's a post I placed 3/24/99 which may be of help.  You might want to
check some of the other posts around the same date.

Paul S. Larudee, RPT
Richmond, CA

Rogerio Cunha wrote:
> 
> We're repeatedly encountering key-balancing problems when restoring
> Steinway grand pianos made in Hamburg in the 40's and 50's.
> 
> Right now we're finishing a German B model from 1957, which received
> new Renner hammers (complete) and new repetitions. After all due
> regulations and lubrications, the keys only start moving down, in
> average, with a 70-gram mass on top of it.
> 
> Considering there isn't much room for additional lead, and, according
> to our past experience, if you insist and lead the keys anyway to 47
> grams you end up with a reasonable weight, but with a strange touch (the
> keyboard gets lazy, like you're playing a "rubber action"), so we're
> wondering WHAT CAN BE DONE to restore the ideal balance of 47g weight
> and responsive touch."
> ROGERIO CUNHA - IC MEMBER OF THE GUILD
The new hammers are probably heavier than the originals.  You need to
either use lighter hammers or reduce the weight (mass) of the ones you
have.  Some ways to do this are

1) taper the hammers (mainly in the tails),
2) slim the tails (remove excess material),
3) widen the arc from the concave side so that it reaches almost to the
bore hole,
4) trim material from edges of the inside of the arc by creating a
triangular or "bicycle seat" cross section,
5) drill small holes along the center of the molding above the bore
hole, and
6) remove material from the sides of the shank itself near the hammer.

Whatever you remove will reduce the keyweight by five times as much.

Paul S. Larudee, RPT
Richmond, CA