Hi all, Well why not consider using something simple like waxed paper to make release very possible. At 03:43 AM 10/19/98 -0700, you wrote: >God help the tech who wants to get this repair apart in twenty years to >replace the pinblock. Sorry, I don't think this is a good repair >because it makes proper repair impossible at a later date. It cannot be >assumed that their is enough graphite or other material on the flange and >webbing to constitute a good release agent for epoxy seperation. > > >Dale Fox > > >On Thu, 29 Oct 1998 15:30:39 -0700 Robert Goodale ><Robert.Goodale@NAU.EDU> writes: >>Larry J. Messerly wrote: >> >>> Found also that there is a gap running almost the length of the >>plate >>> flange that I can stick a business card single or folded into. >>> >>> Suggestions on repairs would be much appreciated., Wedges, >>MarineTex, >>> West System epoxy??? >> >>I've come across two extreme examples of this, one of which was a >>piano >>of Asian ancestry in which a dealer didn't want to bother with. The >>other was on a Steinway "S" which had been rebuilt. This might sound a >>little extreme, but worked very well. >> >>You will need to flip the piano upside down. Obviously this will >>require >>some helpers and the action will need to be removed. If possible do >>this >>on some nice padded heavy saw horses. If you use three or four well >>built ones it should be enough to hold the weight of the piano >>reliably. What you will be doing here is filling the gap with epoxy >>but >>there are two very critical points before hand. The first one is that >>you will need to apply masking tape to each end of the plate so that >>the >>epoxy will not run out the ends. The second is that you will have to >>pre-treat the gap with a little fast curing epoxy. I use the West >>System >>#G5, (PianoTek). This is important because it will cure in about 10 >>minutes and seal the bottom of the gap. You will not be using very >>much >>here, just enough to cover the bottom since this type of epoxy doesn't >>have much strength. If this step omitted you seriously risk the >>stronger long-cure epoxy to leak past the block and down through the >>plate webing. Once the fast-cure epoxy has hardened you may fill the >>gap >>with the good stuff. I use the West Syetem 105 with the 206 hardener, >>(PianoTek). You may need to apply the epoxy a second time to >>completely >>fill it up. As you had suggested, a few wedges inserted might not be a >>bad idea as well. This method seemed to work well for me, perhaps you >>will have luck with it. >> >>Rob Goodale, RPT >> > >___________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html >or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > > Regards, Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T. "Tuner for the Centre of the Arts" drose@dlcwest.com http://www.dlcwest.com/~drose/ 3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK S4S 5G7 306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner
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