In a message dated 5/14/98 3:51:57 PM Central Daylight Time, dkvander@clandjop.com writes: << What do you use to check let-off without measuring? I would be interested in learning about that. >> It's really a no-brainer as most of my most advanced techniques are. You just crank up the let-off button until the hammer blocks, then back off a bit and you have the let-off as close as you can get it. Usually, a 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the let-off button makes the difference between a hammer which blocks or strikes repetitively and one that clears as closely as possible to the string. In most regulations where I am compensating for natural compression or wear and tear, I simply give each let-off button 2 cranks counter clockwise. Then I check to see if there are any blocking hammers. If one blocks here or there, I just give it a 1/4 crank back the other way. Any that are still blocking will turn up in tuning and I just give those a tweek. If I really want to, I can quickly "eyeball" each one and if there are any which look like they are still too far, I give those another 1/2 turn counterclockwise. This makes regulation quick, mindless and easy on the back. You do not tediously set each one and measure it. You just give them all the same crank and "weed out" the ones which were turned too far. No bending over is required. The point is not how far the hammer is from the string on the extremely slow testing stroke but whether it is as close as it can be and not block under normal (or any) playing circumstances. You can waste a lot of time carefully measuring or using a francy jig that may not be properly set up and still have hammers that block or that could have been set closer. This is a blind technician's way of doing it and in my opinion, is faster, better and cheaper than any other way. That is what I always look for in a method. Bill Bremmer RPT Madison, Wisconsin
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