separated back

DGPEAKE DGPEAKE@aol.com
Tue, 31 Mar 1998 23:05:22 EST


In a message dated 98-03-31 17:12:07 EST, you write:

<< 
 One of the schools I serve has a 1980 Everett studio model 1155 piano
 which has a separation across the top, probably not more than 1/16 of an
 inch.  Doing this repair looks pretty simple and straightforward, but I
 have never done this and would like professional results the first
 time.  I'm going to have to look at this piano the rest of my tuning
 days, most likely.
 
 Please correct any of the following, which outlines what I would
 probably do:
 1.  Let the tension down (is this necessary?)  2.  Shield the piano
 interior from dirt.  3.  Work slow-setting epoxy into the crack as much
 as possible.  4.  Pull the top together with 4-5 huge clamps which I
 need to buy somewhere.  5.  Remove the plate screws across the top edge,
 to be replaced with carriage bolts.  4.  Drill through the entire back
 to take carriage bolts big enough to do the job (what diameter?).  5. 
 Insert and snug up the carriage bolts, remove the clamps, tune the
 piano, and that's it (or should I wait a couple days for the epoxy to
 work?).
 
 Your help and comments will be appreciated.  Thank you.
 
 Clyde Hollinger, RPT
 Lititz, PA
 
This is not a difficult repair.  If the pitch is not very far off you should
not have to lower the tension first.   Clamp tightly close to the bolt you are
removing, remove the bolt, drill all the way throught, install carriage bolt
(38 " dia.) long enough to have at least 1/2'' of thread. from the backside.
Install nut and washer in the front, then tighten.   Unless it very large
separation, I do not always epoxy.  The main thing is to not allow the
separation to get any worse and this repair will keep it in check.  For
decoration, you can install an acorn nut in front of the nut.

I am restringing an Eilers upright and found a simular situation.  Since I
removed the strings I did not need to clamp.  The plate had bolts only 3"
long.  Guess where the separation was?  Beyond 3".   After doing the repair, I
used West System epoxy and kept filling until the epoxy was level with the top
of the pinblock.  Being in the shop I was able to monitor the progess while
doing other things. 

Hope this helps.

Dave Peake, RPT
Portland, OR
 






 
 


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