Leather hinges

Les Smith lessmith@buffnet.net
Thu, 27 Mar 1997 15:43:33 -0500 (EST)


Hi, Bill. Be aware that I am taking a guess at this, but I think what
you're looking at ia an early square piano. The first ones dated back to
about 1760 (!) and were made by the expediant of outfitting a clavichord
with a rudimentary hammer action such as you describe. Johannes Zumpre
was building such reworked clavichords in London by the mid-1760's. If
you check out your Pierce Piano Atlas, you'll discover that Gibson and
Davis were building instruments in Londom between 1801 and 1839, about
half a century after the "square" piano first made it's appearance.
Both the clavichord, itself, and the virginal (spinet) used means other
than hammers to excite the strings, so my guess is that your have an
early "square" piano. You'll have to check out those leather hinges
carefully to determine their original thickness. "pouch" leather (.010-
..017) sounds like it's going to be on the thin side, although in recent
years we're seeing it come in thicknesses as great as .025. Calf-skin,
at about .025-,030, or kid- skin at .035-.040 might be a better choice.
As I said, try to match the original as closely as possible. Disas-
aembly should not be a problem. If it appears to be, heat may help since
you'll be working with an "animal" glue". When choosing your leather try
to find some that is unfinished on BOTH sides as glue does not adhere well
to finished leather. If one side is finished you can "rough it up" by
running it across a drum-snder fitted into a drill press. When regluing
old parts and leather it would be best if you could use hot hide glue
to aid future disassembly. Lastly, be aware that tackling this job is
something like attacking a set of plastic lifter elbows in a spinet
piano, where only a few are broken. If 7-8 of those leather hammer hin-
ges are shot, you can be sure that the rest of them are "thinking" about
going, too. Why not "bite the bullet" while you're at it, and just replace
them all at one time? Once you get the hang (!) of it and find the right
leather for the job, the task probably won't turn out to be as difficult
as you probably now anticipate! Lotsa Luck! You may need it! :)

Les Smih
lessmith@buffnet.net

On Wed, 26 Mar 1997 Maxpiano@aol.com wrote:

> List -
>
> I plan to check the archives tonight, but wonder if any antique experts are
> out there who could give a bit of guidance in addition to what is there.
>
> I do not specialize in antique instruments, but do help a customer out with a
> square piano now and then.  Now I have been asked to service an older
> instrument, the fore-runner of the square (same outward appearance but much
> trimmer in form; 6 legs instead of four).  Does anyone know the name for
> these?
>
> The make, if that is of concern, is Gibson - Davis, "New York from London"
>
> The owner is concerned to have all notes play.  The main problem I am
> concerned about is to replace the leather hinges that have separated or are
> getting weak on 6-8 hammers.  This instrument does not have dowel shanks or
> butts, but a flat shank hinged with leather to the hammer rail.  The leather
> does not go into a slot in the shank, but is glued to a mortised-out flat
> area and backed up with a wood insert somewhat thicker than veneer.
>
> Question:  what leather to use?  Will player-piano pouch leather work well?
>  Any suggestion on separating the parts that encase the old leather, to avoid
> damage to the wood?
>
> I am not attempting a museum quality restoration, but do want to leave things
> in such a state that if a proper restoration is ever done, it will be in good
> shape for it.
>
> Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Bill Maxim, RPT
>
>
>
>
>
>





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