[Fwd: Pinblock Repair.]

[Jon Page]

All well and good, but a new fitted block and drilled . . .
sounds easier and less toxic!
Jon Page
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. (jpage@capecod.net)
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At 08:29 PM 1/23/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Subject Pinblock repair
>Date Wed 22Jan 1997 12:04
>from Dick Marshall, MI
>
>It was interesting to note the Wm Blees (St Louis) reply to the
>fiberglass resin pinblock repair thread.  Methods evidentally vary from
>technician to technician and probably the net results do to.  I would
>like to report that one Schmoeller-Mueller bungalow piano I completely
>restrung using fiberglass resin is still going strong!  About 99% of the
>tuning pins turn as well as in a new piano.  This repair was done in the
>spring of 1974.  I wrote the Evercoat company (?) and I have a reply on
>file stating that fiberglass resin, when used in this manner, would last
>indefinitely - and it has for 22 years now.  There seems to be no sign
>of any deterioration of the fiberglass itself.
>
>My method varies somewhat from what the 'thread' seems to state.  I like
>to do verticle pianos better but have done grands as well, blocking up
>the pinblock with jacks to impede the flow of the liquid out the hole.
>I alwo ream out the hole with a gun cleaner type brush; use either 3.0
>or 4.0 pins; and fill the individual holes half full.  Each tuning pin
>is also coated with the resin before driving in to the place where the
>pin 'bottoms out' where the pin gets much tighter because no tuning pin
>has ever been in further (it drives much, much harder if you go too
>far).
>
>One of the things I have done differently, perhaps, is the fact that I
>do about 7 - 8 pin holes at a time, WITHOUT WIRES attached!.  After some
>30 minutes, each pin is then unscrewed about two turns to allow room for
>the pin to be tuned WITHOUT BOTTOMING OUT against hardened fiberglass in
>the bottom of the hole.  The tuning pin doesn't turn very well when it
>hits the hardened fiberglass, I found out the hard way.  {I had to take
>all strings off - back out pin - and reattach the wires one time!}
>Small dixie cups werve as a funnel to pour fiberglass resin from and
>also an excellent container in which to mix up just enough material to
>do the 7 - 8 pins before the hardner takes over.
>
>One main drawback to this method is the fact that you repin without
>attaching the wires.  I found it easier to make coils on a separate
>t-pin and hook up the beckets rather than to turn out the pin enough to
>turn on the whole coil.
>
>The concensus of opinion seems to be that fiberglass resin does, in
>fact, follow and fill all voids in the pinblock, resulting in a good,
>solid foundation for the tuning pin.  I have seen a section of pinblock
>cut into two pieces demonstrating this crack filling very well.
>
>I only wish that each and every one could 'feel' the nice, new piano
>tuning pin feel fiberglassed pin blocks offer.  BUT you have to have
>ROOM for the pin to screw in and out - not against the hardened
>fiberglass.
>
>P.S.  I would appreciate someone familiar with Netscape 3.0 telling me
>how to enclose the original message in e-mail replies.  Thanks.  I also
>had trouble sending to pianotech causing an "user unknown" error
>message.
>
>
>
>			cpstout@concentric.net
>			R.P.T., Nebraska Chapter
>			Holyoke, Co and Chandler, AZ
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>Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 12:04:37 -0500 (EST)
>From: Pianotoone@aol.com
>Subject: Pinblock Repair.
>Sender: owner-pianotech@byu.edu
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>
>Piano is an old Kimball Baby Grand.  Not worth the cost of replacing the
>pinblock.  Pinblock is cracked in a group of about 20 pins at the low end of
>the treble section.  I have heard of using epoxy to attempt a repair, but
>don't know the technique.  Does anybody wish to share their expertise or have
>another method worth trying? Have explained to the customer that any repair
>of this type is a gamble, but she wants to try.
>
>Dick
>Marshall, MI
>
>
>

Jon Page
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. (jpage@capecod.net)
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