On Fri, 18 Oct 1996, Rob Kiddell wrote: >Greetings List > > Just an update on the Yamaha U3 repinning job that a bunch of you >helped out on (!) Reamed & repinned with 2 X 2 1/2 blued cut thread >pins, worked fine, except in the lower tenor where some 3's and even >the odd 4 had to be used. Tension is consistent at 80-100 in/lbs >either direction. Probably have the only Yamaha with Baldwin pin >tension in this region! Pins are tight but not jumpy or squeaking. >Reaming is the way to go. Thanks to all who helped out. > >Regards, >Rob Kiddell >R.P.T., P.T.G. >C.A.P.T. Student >Edmonton, Canada >http://www.planet.eon.net/~atonal/atonal.html > Rob, I agree; reaming is the way to go. Some have said that a drill works better, which I cannot imagine. A drill has a cutting leading edge and is not necessarilly self centering (only two flutes instead of the minimum 3 needed for centering the leading end). A drill also must be turned during it's extraction from the hole in order to leave a smooth hole, and in doing so, continues to cut the walls, thus making the hole larger near the entrance than at the bottom. The cutting edges of a drill are much sharper in angle than a reamer, which leads the cuting edges into the wood, making the hole larger the more revolutions that you turn it. If you tilt a drill, it is very unforgiving-- its sharp cutting edge will remove a lot of material and result in an oblong hold. I assume that you used a six sided straight flute reamer, and turned it by hand. Is this true? And exactly what diameter? Bill Bailer \\\ William Bailer wbailer@cris.com \\\ Rochester, NY, USA phone: 716-473-9556 \\\ Interests: acoustics, JSBach, anthropology, piano technology
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