key dip

[Avery Todd]

Larry,
   One thing I would check is the amount of aftertouch on the sharps
compared with the aftertouch on the naturals. If there is too much
aftertouch it will seem as though the key dip is too great. Assuming
correct key height for both and correct key dip on the naturals, after
let-off has been set on all keys,
you can set your hammer blow for the naturals by the amount of aftertouch
you desire, do your hammer line and then set your sharp dip by matching the
travel of the capstan to the white key capstan. They should both travel the
same. Then you can change the blow distance and/or the key dip a "little"
to achieve evenness of aftertouch on the sharps.
   This way you can get that "extremely small let-off and negligible drop"
and still get the dip/aftertouch you need.
   Also make sure the jack tender can be moved up and down by hand to make
sure it isn't "jamming" into the cushion felt.
   I have only started using this method in the last few years, so someone
correct me if I have this screwed up, but it seems to me that this way
achieves an evenness of key travel that most pianists want and eliminates
the need for any kind of gauge other than a dip block for the naturals.

>I have read about using the nickel to set sharp dip on pianos.  However,
>when the pianist wants extremely small letoff and negligible drop (of course
>you have to have some!) the limitations on key dip are enormous. I would
>definately agree that sharp dip being below the naturals is too great, and
>if the dip is set that way because of other settings within the piano, I
>would move to adjust those to achieve a more acceptable sharp dip.  I wonder
>what the blow distance was....
>
>Laurence Beach
>Vancouver BC

_____________________________________
Avery Todd, RPT
Moores School of Music
University of Houston
Houston, TX 77204-4893
713-743-3226
atodd@uh.edu
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