Unweighting keys, (repair)

[A440A@aol.com]

Jim Bryant  asks;

>I get the impression that
>one should fill the void left when key weights are removed.  Is there a
>reason for this ?     Is there a justifiable reason to fill
>the void left when removing weights, other than cosmetic ?

Yes and yes.

     Keys that are to remain in service through many sets of hammers and
shanks, etc, should be repaired so that they can be used in definitely.  That
means,  they should be repaired  so that you have the option of installing a
lead again in the future, perhaps right near where you are taking one out at
present.  I have found the following procedure to work.
      This technique has provided dependable service on several concert
keyboards that had , in places, three holes gouged out together, and many
splits etc.  I would suggest that all the longitudinal splitting that seems
to occur with ill advised releading be repaired before beginning to repair
the holes.

    Drill the newly vacant hole(s) with the smallest Forstner bit possible to
make a   straight sided hole. Glue in a plug, cut with a plug cutter, from
similar wood, aligned as closely as possible to the key grain.  When dry,
 finish the sides flush.
     Cut a veneer patch that covers the hole(s) and surrounding area ,(
overlap the edges at least half the diameter of the hole if possible, but
stay 1/8" away from the top and bottom edge of the key.) Trace the outline of
this patch on the side of the key, over the area you want to repair.
     Set a flush bottom router bit in the drill press, lay the key on its
side under it, and set the plunger stop so that the bottom of the bit will
just touch the upper facing side of the key.  Slide a like thickness sheet of
veneer under the key and  begin your cut with a plunge in the middle of your
patch outline outline, locking the bit down after it hits the stop. You may
want to set the bit to depth, and begin your cut in from the bottom edge,  it
will leave a small gap, though unless this is a museum piece, I don't think
it matters much.   Carefully take two cuts if this is your first time, as the
control is an aquired skill.  Strive to keep a flat surface, and approach the
edges carefully,  just leaving the pencil edge showing.  You will fit the
veneer in with just a little light sanding on the edges of the patch.

     Glue the patch into its shallow  mortise,  it makes a flush sided key
that will  allow a hole to be drilled  anywhere in it if a lead needs to be
added in the future . (Plus,  when you get the patch to meet really close, it
is great source of job satisfaction, along with being a bullet-proof repair !
)


     Badly damaged keys may have  repair done on both sides for added
strength.

Regards to all
Ed Foote
Precision Piano Works
Nashville, Tn