Steve, The approach you mention might work okay. Another option is to use the next larger size tuning pin from the one currently in question without using any inserts. There are never any hard and fast rules when a piano is no longer in its virgin state of being. Keith A. McGavern, RPT kam544@ionet.net Oklahoma Baptist University in Shawnee MAIL> reply To: SMTP%"pianotech@byu.edu" Subj: Re: The metal tuning pin insert shims. Enter your message below. Press CTRL/Z when complete, or CTRL/C to quit: Steve, If you decide to use the metal inserts, you would do well to go to a smaller pin, as you suggested. We see a few of them up here in the North- East, but it is usually felt that they are used by less competent technicians. That of course is a value judgement. Still they ugly looking in the piano, and don't always work well. The wood shim is acceptable and is actually known to be used in factories from time to time when they have a loose pin for If you like being classy, the British apparently use Rosewood shims - or so I just read in their most recent Journal. The oversized pin can also be useful, unless the cause of the problem is a crack in the pinblock, rather than just a worn hole. If you have a crack then you will likely just spread the crack more whe oversize pin. Sort of like splitting wood using wedge. Cracks can often be spotted by noting if other pins in the area are loose and in line with the one you are working on. Most especially be cautious of the first row of pins closest to the speaking length. If you see loose pins on every other note in that first row, you almost certainly have a crack forming in the block. Put in that larger size pin and you will have a larger crack moving quickly, I prefer using the sandpaper shim myself. Newton Tuner Jim said that he tried the sandpaper both facing the block and the pin with no noticable difference. I would disagree. I believe the paper should always have the abr abrasive biting into the wood not the pin. Otherwise the pin and the paper will turn together in the hole instead of just the pin turning in the now smaller hole. Also, if there is any question of a crack, then i would suggest putting the sandpaper in so that it bridges the gap, thus making the hole smaller without acting like a wedge. Generally that will mean puttiong the paper in the hole at either the 3:00 or 9:00 position, not at 6:00 or 12:00. You will also find that you generally only need to go about 1/3 of the circumference of the hole, not all the way around as you would do with a metal insert. Another reason for putting the abrasive side toward the block has to do with reinstalling the pin.Curve the sandpaper to go into the hole, put the pin in the hole and tap it in with a hammer. With the abrasive side toward the wood the paper stays intact. The other direction and it would be inclined to tear it off and push the strip ahead of the pin into the bottom of the hole. By the Way, trying to turn the pin down into the hole will also just tear the paper off. One last approach you may wish to consider is the use of an epoxy. You can use both 5 minute epoxy in the hole to coat the hole and help fill any cracks, or an epoxy filler to completely fill the hole and then later redrill the hole for the pin. If you use the 5 minute epoxy, put some into the hole and work it all around. Then drive the tuning pin into the hole and put the string on. Tap the pin to final height. Thenb keep going back to the pin every few minutes for the next half hour to an hour and give the pin just a turn to keep it from being glued solid to the block. One advantage to this system is that driving the pin in will force the glue into any existing cracks and may help to stabilize that area some. Good luck and any questions about the above, plese feel free to contact me privately as well. Ed Hilbert, RPT Vermont Chapter
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