Samick pianos, stubborn tunings

[Larry Fisher]

>Not to associate "stubborn tunings" with Samick pianos, but those are the
ones that give me the most frequency with this problem most likely due to
the fact that I have two dealers selling them under different names and so I
see a lot of them.  I've experienced the same phenomenum (sp) on large
grands and almost always on 9 footers.
>
>Stubborn tunings........... In the process of tuning, you try to set the
pin, settle the string, equalize the tension at all points of bearing on the
string.  To acheive this is to have a very stable tuning and a happy
customer.  I've experienced this lately with a new twist.  Armed with some
info someone posted about seating the strings at the bridge pins, and also
having heard the same from a class at a PTG seminar somewhere, I thought I'd
get smart and actually apply some technique using my dead brain full of
useful information.  One piano in particular was exhibiting some classic
symptoms.  I'd pull the note up, jiggle the tuning pin to relieve the stored
torque, apply a test blow and hope for a dead beat.  After many failed
attempts, usually I start beating the crap out of the note partly out of
frustration and partly because that usually works.  Lately, I've noticed it
doesn't work anywhere near as well as stopping, seating the strings, and
then trying again.  As I get older I get more gooder I guess.  Today I had a
note that was being stubborn, and so I used my screwdriver and the palm of
my hand to gently seat the strings around the bridge pins and had instant
results.
>
>Some points I'd like to make here.
>
>Seating the strings.........basically pushing on the string right at the
bridge pin using a very light tapping motion and then traveling with that
tapping motion towards the back bridge pin.  This tapping should not be hard
enough to dent the bridge but enough to SEAT the string tight against the
bridge and the bridge pin.
>
>Screw driver blade............... proper tool is a piece of very hard wood,
or some brass rod stock with a wood dowel for a handle (not mounted T
fashion , but rather inline/inserted with the brass rod). I have one that I
filed the end to a very blunt taper, enough so I can get at the junction of
the string with the bridge pin.  The screw driver blade I used was a Schaff
combo handle tool that bends when looked at from the wrong angle and I used
it knowing it was the wrong tool and used it carefully so as not to cause
damage to the "harder than the blade" piano wire.  Using the palm of my hand
gently I didn't feel had enough energy/enertia to cause trouble with the
string.  The above mentioned "proper" tool I use with a small hammer head,
small enough to fit in my hand, and with no handle.  I use it to tap on the
wood dowel that is on the end of the brass rod, total length of about 6" or
about the distance from A to L on your computer's keyboard for those of you
who don't use American measurements (Canucks and such eh??).  The key is to
provide enough tap to move the string firmly against the pin and the bridge
but not so much power as to create a dent in the wood of the bridge cap.
>
The little rivers and streams are starting to mellow out, and the BIG MUTHAS
are still the boss.  With some more sunshine and drying winds, we should be
back into full swing by next week.  What a pain avoiding flooded roads,
mudslides, missing roads, cars parked on their door handles, and basic
general mayhem everywhere.

>I do believe I can smell some homemade Huckleberry Liqueur about to greet
me.  Gotta go guys, sorry.
>
>Lar
>
>
>
>
                           Larry Fisher RPT, Metro Portland, Oregon's
                      Factory Preferred Installer for PianoDisc Products
                     phone 360-256-2999 or Email larryf@pacifier.com
                            If at first it doesn't fit, get a bigger hammer