I realize that there are a variety of approaches to lacquering and on a standard belly it probably doesnt make that much difference as long as the solution is a reasonable strength. On a standard Steinway belly you can lacquer right over the top if you dont mind needling out the zings that form but you can still do it without any ill effects. In the past Ive lacquered right over the top and then gone back and with a hypo oiler put just a couple of drops of pure acetone on the very crown of the hammer to reduce the zing. Generally speaking that approach is ok as is wicking the lacquer in from the shoulder or carefully applying it just over the top of the wood core from the side of the hammer. On these bellies, however, (and Del should probably be consulted on the approach since he knows exactly what he did) Ive found that normal lacquer protocols can be dangerous. Im thinking of an S&S O that I put a new belly in, total Fandrich design in terms of soundboard and rib weighting and it got Ronsen Bacon hammers. There is not one drop of lacquer on those hammers (and we know how soft they are) and each time I visit that piano Im voicing it down somewhat to suit the customer whose taste does not favor an overly dark piano. There are other examples of pianos I've done (B's, L's, O's, M's). Its just that the belly is so responsive that all it needs is that soft hammer to drive it and develop the full range of partials. So a lacquering of any type not carefully thought out in terms of this particular belly could create problems. On the D belly as described it probably tolerates a bit more firmness or weight (or both) but still one should exercise caution. On standard bellies there's more leeway. At least in my experience. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Fred Sturm Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 5:57 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] Hammers I would certainly defer to your opinion on this particular soundboard style, as I don't have experience with it. I did want to point out this alternative approach, though, for lacquering hammers, in addition to shoulders or soak from the top. Adding lacquer at the core can be done very subtly and gradually. Apply right at the tip of the core, and let it soak an area more or less circular around that point, which can be controlled pretty precisely with a small enough hypo needle. If it wasn't enough, another application can build a layer that creates a larger circle. Needling with one long needle can back it off. There is no addition of brittle attack zing in the softer parts of the range, as with surface application, and there is a faster build of power compared to shoulder application. It's another option that is out there, an easy and cheap experiment short of hammer replacement. Fred On Jun 24, 2010, at 3:52 PM, David Love wrote: As a comparison I would say not on these bellies. A strong application to the lower shoulders will produce something different than an attempt to wick the same solution to within 2 mm of the crown. That strong solution which will reinforce the lower shoulder will not produce the same result beneath the strike point. Under the strike point it will be too harsh sounding. I don't know this particular piano but having seen many of Del's iterations and designs I would say that you must be cautious with lacquer solutions. The bellies are light and tend to respond very adequately with softer hammers. The idea that a D belly would even be close to something acceptable with an unreinforced Ronsen Bacon hammer should be a clue as to the responsiveness. If you want to wick something under the crown then a much lighter solution is in order than the one which will be used to reinforce the lower shoulders. At least that's been my experience. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com Regards, Fred Sturm fssturm at unm.edu Art is not a mirror held up to reality, but a hammer with which to shape it. Brecht
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