Andrew,
Since it is still a warranty issue and the technician chosen by the dealer
couldn't fix the problem, I'd call the factory directly and see if they will
pay you or advise you further about getting the problem resolved to the
customer's satisfaction. When Steinway markets to colleges and
universities, they imply better service. When you talk to someone at the
factory, be sure it is someone who can give you technical support rather
than just send you some parts that don't really do the job.
Some manufacturers...Yamaha and Kawai, for example, offer excellent
technical support and are eager to help the technician resolve problems.
You should expect no less from this manufacturer even if the dealer can't
provide technical support.
jeannie
_____
From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Andrew
Anderson
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 2:33 PM
To: caut at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [CAUT] Shimming the Steinway Action stack to reach the strings
Mr. Solliday,
I was caught by the proff. in the parking lot after tuning for the Chopin
bicentennial concert. I'll have to dig through my notes for what I found
last time I investigated this. When I had the blow distance at 1&7/8 I
could have a nominal .390 dip with minimal aftertouch ( jack fully clearing
the knuckle with small visible gap: I don't like too much but too little is
another problem on hard blows). Problem was the shanks were way off of the
cushions and there was lots of bouncing going on interfering with repetition
and touch. I couldn't get a consistent drop across the compass because the
drop screws were already backed out (1/4" drop in some cases), one was
broken and a number twisted so the screw driver was loose. After talking to
a Steinway tech in parts I got a box of shims sent out. I suggested to the
school that maybe this was a Steinway warranty issue to be pursued with the
dealer. The dealer sent an irascible tech. who went for lots of blow
distance and a lot of aftertouch. This has turned out to be unsatisfying to
the faculty and they are now asking me to address the problem.
I'll try to get back in next week and sample a number of different parts of
the scale. Seems to me that there was a specific note that is measured and
that it was 1/4" high last time I checked.
I'm guessing that besides re-regulating I will probably have to warm over
the checking when done because of a potential change in angle. Presently
the hammers are all over-centering somewhere between 1/8 and 3/16". They've
had some minimal shaping (polishing to try to get some power). Not enough,
I think, to significantly change the centering issue.
Possibly backing the capstans out that much may loosen them and require a
little water thin CA glue to tighten. I'm also wondering how much that will
affect the capstan heel interface.
I recall wondering about shimming the action rails (room under fallboard but
less then is available under the pin-block). I'd have to revisit the damper
underlever timing. The shift pedal slide guides would need to be adjusted
on the cheek blocks too. There should still be plenty of bite for the shift
lever but I could shim that too. I recall thinking I could gain 1/8" under
the fallboard. I guess it would be easy to temp a shim under the rails and
see what the real, full-impact would be for doing so. Educational if
nothing else.
I'll get back with hard numbers late next week.
Andrew Anderson
On Feb 26, 2010, at 2:26 PM, Chris Solliday wrote:
And Jim is probably right in this case, as over 2 inches blow distance is
alot. Not to mention that you say the drop screws are fully backed out. You
may need different dimensioned parts. I guess the point is that we in
cyberspace need alot more information from you before we can get specific.
Chris Solliday
----- Original Message -----
From: James N. Hess <mailto:hesspiano at juno.com>
To: caut at ptg.org
Cc: caut at ptg.org
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [CAUT] Shimming the Steinway Action stack to reach the strings
Often you are very limited on the amount you can raise the stack because of
interference with the pinblock. My experience has been that you may be able
to add 1/16". I think reboring the hammers is a better solution.
Jim Hess, RPT
On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 14:58:36 -0500 "Chris Solliday" <csolliday at rcn.com>
writes:
String Height minus Hammer Bore equals Shank Center Pin Height. We use
laminated shim stock that we get from the local hobby store. Realize that
just raising the pin height MIGHT work, but consider the arc of the hammer
blow. You could end up with the hammer over centering if you simply raise
the feet under the hammer flange pins. You need to imagine the pin in space
and rotate the stack around it so that the stike point ends up at ninety
degrees to the string. It might not be that now. Usually this means shimming
the front foot slightly as well. Best of luck Andrew.
Chris Solliday, RPT
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew <mailto:andrew at andersonmusic.com> Anderson
To: caut at ptg.org
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [CAUT] Shimming the Steinway Action stack to reach the strings
Yes, mea culpa. Wasn't really thinking the numbers...most likely 2"+
On Feb 26, 2010, at 11:30 AM, reggaepass at aol.com wrote:
The school whose Steinways I service is not satisfied with the dealer's
warranty fix (greater then 1" blow distance).
Andrew,
Not sure what you mean by this ("greater then 1" blow distance"). Did you
mean greater than 2" (since it sounds like the strings are too high)?
Alan Eder
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Anderson <andrew at andersonmusic.com>
To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>
Sent: Fri, Feb 26, 2010 9:13 am
Subject: [CAUT] Shimming the Steinway Action stack to reach the strings
The school whose Steinways I service is not satisfied with the dealer's
warranty fix (greater then 1" blow distance). They are requesting that the
piano be made to play like it should which will require shimming the stack
so it is within reach of the strings (>1/4" between fully backed out
drop-screws and pinblock).
Has anyone done this? What was the scope of work required? What is a
reasonable amount of time to complete the work?
Thanks
Andrew Anderson
James Hess, RPT
200 W. Allen St.
Mechanicsburg, PA 17055
717/580-1445 (cell)
www.hesspiano.com
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