Hi Todd, Chris... others, I have to second Chris's basic approach here. Make sure all the parts that wear out are renewed. Appropriately firm bushings, both key and centers are what factories start with when they lead keys along with at least a fairly decently regulated action. You want to make sure all these are in good shape before proceeding. I'd also have a good think about the voicing. Pianists sense of touch is far more bound up in the overall response of the instrument then I think many of us really are aware of. It the piano is very bright then perhaps a down-toning is in order anyways and may be much of what your pianist wants. Its really your job to ascertain just what she means by the vague "Its too light". What combination of voicing, regulation and leverage issues do you need to satisfy her.... without making the piano difficult for everyone else ? If it comes down to leading alone. There are basically two big factors... the actual static down weight and the amount of mass you are pushing around. To keep key mass levels anywhere close to what they are in a grand you need leads on both ends of the key lever. I don't think we have any basic guidelines for this yet, but more then 4 ten mm leads in any key in the bass graduating to 1 or less in the top is what one often sees in grands. In an upright these will have to be distributed front and back of course. If you have enough mass in the keys already, then removal of front leading is your first path. You may have to add a bit to the back end in the higher treble. Alternatively, you can add up to 3-4 grams of weight out on the whippen lever. That may or may not be a desirable depending on the action. Cheers RicB Todd, I'd recommend overhauling the key bushings and pin holes first. Either replace the key bushings and insert new pin holes (Mike Morvan may have something to help with that) or at least recondition the pin holes with alittle steam or water and apply one or two drops of VS Profelt and the appropriate size cauls ovenight. Make sure there is no or almost no lost motion at the capstan and level and dip the keys, shallower gives the perception of more weight. Then weigh off and see where you are. Back leading is standard practice on uprights. It's also worth going through all the hammer butt and damper springs to be sure there is enough tension. When considering back leading achieving a balance weight of 40 grams should give a nice firm feel that's without the dampers in play. For more in depth you might check with Ric Brekne or David Stanwood who have been doing research in this area. Best of luck, Chris Solliday
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