I always thought it had teflon in it...interesting David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: "Fred Sturm" <fssturm at unm.edu> To: caut at ptg.org Received: 8/18/2009 8:47:04 AM Subject: Re: [CAUT] lubing ponder >On Aug 18, 2009, at 8:53 AM, Jeff Tanner wrote: >> I should add, that I've tried Pro-Tec and don't see what the hooplah >> is all about. When humidity swells the bushings, how is adding a >> liquid lubricant going to solve the problem? Solve the humidity >> problem. Neither does it help with the plated pin problem described >> earlier. It doesn't help with verdigris, and it doesn't help with >> whatever those Wurlitzer bushings had in them. My first bottle >> evaporated in my car, and the second bottle lost about 1/3 to >> evaporation before I even took it out of the plastic (granted, I was >> in no hurry), so I don't know if it will be effective at all. >> What's in that stuff anyway? > When humidity is the problem (ie, bushings swollen with moisture, >pressing against the pin), the likelihood is that the best solution >will be to shrink the bushings, using an alcohol/water solution >(controlling the ambient humidity may or may not be possible, and may >or may not solve the problem). If friction is the problem. Protek CLP >works quite well. When it is an issue of plating, the pin needs to be >replaced, and the felt reamed to remove residue - a lubricant alone >won't solve the problem permanently. The same is often true of "Asian >flu" centers, where there seems to be a residue in the felt, >particularly on its surface. But lubrication after reaming is >definitely a good thing and makes the fix more permanent in my >experience. > When it is an issue of verdigris, Protek CLP can often be a >reasonable solution short of parts replacement, if done as follows: >apply to the center, and then work the flange laterally. That is, so >that the felt of the bushing is moved back and forth in the direction >of the length of the pin. This procedure has helped keep a number of >instruments under my care functional for many years, better than >anything else short of parts replacement (though I will add that for >those centers that don't respond, pin replacement and a bit of reaming >is needed). Not ideal, but functional. > You do need a container for Protek that avoids evaporation - not that >big a deal. Those little hypo bottles from Schaff with the red caps >work pretty well. It's not a good idea to keep volatile liquids in the >car, where they will be exposed to high temperature. If you must, keep >them in an ice chest type container. What's in it? Fluoro-polymers, an >excellent lubricant similar chemically to teflon. >Regards, >Fred Sturm >University of New Mexico >fssturm at unm.edu
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