[CAUT] string level

[Chris Solliday]

So sensible.
Chris Solliday
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Wolfley, Eric (wolfleel) 
  To: caut at ptg.org 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 8:06 AM
  Subject: Re: [CAUT] string level


  I've taken to simply removing the dampers from that section while doing this work. It only takes about 3 minutes to take them out and then you have complete access right on the strike-point for string-leveling plus the added bonus of being able to do a great job of spacing and mating the hammers to the strings, setting let-off, etc. It usually takes no more than 10-15 minutes to put the dampers back. In that critical section of the instrument doing this seems like a very good investment of time given the benefits of being able to see what you are doing.

  Eric

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Fred Sturm [fssturm at unm.edu]
  Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 5:17 PM
  To: caut at ptg.org
  Subject: Re: [CAUT] string level


  On Apr 28, 2009, at 1:53 AM, Joe Goss wrote:


    The foot would be ruined.


  in which case maybe you could just glue a magnet to the mother goose level.
  Chris Solliday




  To clarify a bit about the design I posted: I like to have the actual bubble higher up for visibility. I posted an earlier design maybe two years ago that did that. It does require a little more mass on the bottom to keep from being wobbly, so it will sit solidly on the strings. That design took care of the problem of measuring strings next to struts, unless they are partly under the struts. 

  I was trying to come up with a way of getting a level between dampers and the capo, where that gap is very narrow sometimes. That is a far better place to be measuring than behind the dampers, as it is much closer to strike point. So I tried a narrow piece of steel, but it didn't sit very well on the strings, and wanted to fall over. I couldn't get a good "pluck noise difference." Adding a magnet stabilized it, because it was attracted to the strings, and made for a good, positive difference in sound between contacting and non-contacting strings. The photo I posted a couple days ago was a preliminary model, and I need to get a thinner magnet and use thinner steel to get what I want. But I thought the idea of the magnet was definitely a keeper, so I posted it. 

  And, yes, it would be possible to design a magnetic string level that would hang down from the bottom of the strings. That would make it possible to put it right at the strike point. But as I noted in my post responding to Ed Sutton, it doesn't seem like it would be very practical.

  I think Joe Goss' tool is a great one. But I'm not one to "leave well enough alone". Have to keep puttering and improving. Beats the heck out of working and making money <G>. 

  BTW, if Joe or anyone else wants to make a level using a magnet and offer it for sale, he has my blessing. I'm not interested in that sort of business, myself. Can't be too strong a magnet, or it would pull the strings into line and give you a perfect reading every time, which would be slightly counterproductive.


  Regards,
  Fred Sturm
  University of New Mexico
  fssturm at unm.edu



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