Yes... after all, isn't that the industry standard?! ;>) Actually I've tried the natural maple, and like the look of that too, but as Shawn Hoar says "ya gotta have fun when yer workin!" I should correct a typo from my last post... meant to say "so I will try his (David Love) and Ron's suggestion of driving the pins dry and CA-ing them after. Cheers man! Mark -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Alan McCoy Sent: April 22, 2009 5:16 PM To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Epoxy the bridge cap So are you saying that you'll sacrifice function for what ... vanity??! :) For me, I'll go with the naked good looks of rock maple. Alan > From: Mark Cramer <Cramer at brandonu.ca> > Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org> > Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:44:43 -0500 > To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org> > Subject: [CAUT] Epoxy the bridge cap > > Great, > > For anyone else curious about Bill's method, here's an excerpt from my > notes: > > . Ream the holes to an up-size if necessary, then vacuum again. > > . Apply one bead of epoxy in each hole, swabbing as you go, one octave > at a time. > > . Dip each pin in epoxy before installing, then after two octaves, set > pins to full depth. > > . Brush excess epoxy into notches with an acid brush, rinse it in > lacquer thinner, then scrub the bridge top, cleaning the brush after every > couple unisons. > > As we know, the thinner evaporates almost immediately, and the remaining > surface looks like bare but polished, pore-filled maple. > > Nonetheless, I'm really intrigued by David's idea; staining the cap (for my > own vanity sake, if nothing else :>) so have mixed up a dark mahogany dye > for this one. I won't be able to go the epoxy route, because the lacquer > thinner would remove my dye, so will his and Ron's suggestion of driving the > pins dry and CA-ing them after. > > Mark > > > > > Hi Mark, > > Thanks for the suggestion. I like the idea in concept. I have some of this > bridge stock left over so I will drill some holes, apply the clear coat and > then apply the thinner chaser. Then after a week or so I'll cut the stock in > half to see what kind of penetration there is. > > I have often used the Spurlock method for bridge pins, but I wanted to try > the clear coat because I would prefer not to use the epoxy while driving the > pins - an extra step I'd like to avoid. I haven't tried the Nossman/Fandrich > style cap as I haven't built a power notcher so I don't need a "driving > fluid". The caps I have used are a 4- or 5-ply laminated maple. > > Alan > > >> From: Mark Cramer <Cramer at brandonu.ca> >> Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" > <caut at ptg.org> >> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 18:12:19 -0500 >> To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org> >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] install bridge pins? >> >> David mentioned sanding the epoxy coating. I've never done this, nor left >> anything on the surface Alan. >> >> After surplus is brushed into the notches, I rinse and clean the remainder >> with lacquer thinner, and it soaks in like an oil finish. That's the > surface >> I was trying to describe... nothing between the wood and strings. >> >> As for the barrier to moisture, I'm obviously relying on the initial > coating >> to penetrate as deep as it can (for about 10 to 15 minutes), then chasing > it >> with the thinned coat, which really dissolves and evaporates quite > quickly. >> >> Again, it's not a layer on top, I don't really want that, the saturation > of >> the wood itself is all I'm after. If you haven't tried this method, I hope >> you will, and let me know what you think. >> >> Thanks, >> Mark >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Alan >> McCoy >> Sent: April 21, 2009 5:52 PM >> To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] install bridge pins? >> >> Hi Folks, >> >> Last job I coated the new bridges and caps with System 3 Clear Coat, a >> penetrating epoxy. Letting it flow into the holes as it would. Rationale >> being to seal the bridges as much as possible. This was done after > drilling >> and notching. I put the pins in dry. First one I've done with Clear Coat. >> You can watch as the epoxy penetrates. It does not penetrate maple as it >> does spruce, needless to say. But it does penetrate some. The hope is that >> it reinforces the surface fibers for strength as well as form a humidity >> barrier for the bridge as a whole. The jury is still out about longevity. >> The only thing I don't like about it is the glossy finish as I'd prefer > less >> shine. (Holes were drilled deeper and pins were not seated or filed. No >> lubricant used.) >> >> Alan McCoy >> >> >>> From: Mark Cramer <Cramer at brandonu.ca> >>> Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" >> <caut at ptg.org> >>> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 14:03:52 -0500 >>> To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org> >>> Subject: Re: [CAUT] install bridge pins? >>> >>> Yeah, that's what I'm chewing on at the moment Jim. I'm drilling a new >> cap, >>> and have pretty much decided to drive the pins "dry" on this one, > followed >>> by a drop of CA at each pin. >>> >>> >>> >>> A year or so ago I did a test to see whether CA, or epoxy (via a heated >>> bridge-pin) penetrated the bridge cap better. After drying, I pulled the >>> pins then sliced through the holes on a table saw. For the life of me, I >>> can't remember the winner!? >>> >>> >>> >>> I did this at the Banff shop, so maybe Bert can help out. I've really got >> to >>> look into those memory enhancing drinks! >>> >>> >>> >>> Any case, Ron Nossaman's suggestion was/is that only the surface > matters, >>> so the depth (both went several mm) issue would be a moot point. >>> >>> >>> >>> When a valid idea comes along, I think it's important to get some > examples >>> in place in a hurry, after all it takes a few years of seasonal cycling >>> before any kind of responsible conclusions can be made. >>> >>> >>> >>> Mark >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _____ >>> >>> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jim >>> Busby >>> Sent: April 21, 2009 12:34 PM >>> To: caut at ptg.org >>> Subject: Re: [CAUT] install bridge pins? >>> >>> >>> >>> I don't know if this has been said or not, but the Nossaman method of >>> drilling the pin deeper than normal and using a laminated cap is > extremely >>> effective in keeping the top of the hole firm (laminated). Using CA glue >> and >>> filling the hole may negate the advantage of the deeper hole by filling >> it, >>> allowing the bottom of the pin to touch bottom, which has some negative >>> effects. >>> >>> >>> >>> Jim Busby >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > >
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