Okay, back to working with a *new* bridge cap though; stain the cap first, drill the new holes, then coat the cap with CA letting it run into the holes, then notch, pin and finish? How much CA in the holes? Full, 1/2, or just the drips that result from flowing it over the cap? As mentioned, we've been doing the epoxy/re-pin/re-notch for over a decade on old bridges, but only the last year or two on *new* caps. The process is pretty much the same, however I prefer to brush the epoxy into the fresh notches *and* clean/rinse it off, same as we do on the cap. I love the finished surface left behind after the epoxy has been diluted/rinsed away. It looks sealed and *foritfied* but with no surface residue remaining. IOW, I feel like the voids in the wood surface are filled, the wood fiber is supported, making the string-contact surface more dense, and there is now a barrier to moisture. I gather that's the very same thing that you (and at least one *new* piano with a re-emerging brand-name ;>) are going for on your new bridge caps David? So, on a new cap again, where you don't need to re-size the holes, and you've allowed the (thin?) CA to run into them, I'm guessing all the CA has been absorbed and we can install the pins now? And you will follow up with a drop to the base of each pin, same as reconditioning an old cap? I'm leaning towards trying this David. I'm also kind of addicted to seeing that healthy blob of epoxy that surfaces when you drive the pins, however, cured CA creates a significantly harder surface than epoxy, and that's likely a bonus for a bridge cap. Thanks for your patience with all my Q's. best regards, Mark C. PS We use a long-flat-block to level the cap, reduce the string cuts and avoid hollows, kind of like the "long-board" used for auto-body. PPS Like Buzz, I too am kind of sentimental about flowing out a nice coat of DAG to a flawless, satiny graphite finish. Oh well.
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