I've gone to replacing pins with a larger size depending on the piano. Most Steinways have #6 pins in the capo section, #7 through the tenor, #8 and #9 in the bass. I don't do the epoxy method anymore either. After pulling out the old pins, cleaning the old dag off with denatured alcohol and sanding out the string grooves, I coat the bridge top with thin CA glue allowing it to run down into the holes (wear a mask). Lately I've taken to staining the very top of the bridge (not the notches) with some wood colored stain like cherry or mahogany first. After the CA application the holes themselves will be reinforced enough to redrill which I do with the next size up: #7 in the capo, #8 in the tenor and #9 through the bass. (If the bridge pins are already those sizes I don't go larger than that.) The CA also will size the holes just slightly. After drilling I then recut the notches. The stain makes seeing the notch line easier and looks nice when you coat the bridge with clear lacquer which I do when all is done. I also use rounded pins setting them to the desired height above the bridge cap during installation and don't file. Once the pins are installed I secure them with another application of thin CA, then shoot with clear lacquer. I don't use a lubricant on the bridge top, doesn't seem necessary and can mar your really nicely finished surface. As an aside, on most rebuilds with the original board I recap the capo section (even if I don't recap the rest of the piano) and take advantage of the opportunity to make any speaking length changes or address bridge height concerns. In that case, I don't stain the new bridge caps (new quarter sawn maple just looks too nice) and finish also with clear lacquer. Resurfacing the bridge, repining and recutting the notches is an essential part of any quality rebuilding job, in my view. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Mark Cramer Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 1:34 PM To: CAUT Subject: [CAUT] install bridge pins? A few years ago I ran out of good reasons not to pin a new bridge-cap with the same epoxy method (Mr. Bill's) we've been using to re-pin original caps with for over a decade. More recently, I've tried to add some of the heresy gleaned from this list (you know who you are ;>) into my procedure, as follows: 1.) Drilling the holes to extra depth. 2.) Installing rounded-pins to final height, rather than the traditional filing method. 3.) Coating the surface with McLube rather than Dag (graphite). Any other suggestions.? (No we don't have a handy source of Titanium bridge pins or a hydraulic pin-press) The bridges I've already done this way sound nice and clean, and render well. but then they all do, for the first year anyhow. ;>) Best regards, Mark Cramer, RPT Brandon University -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut_ptg.org/attachments/20090420/446c272b/attachment-0001.html>
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