[CAUT] lyre disassembly

[Todd Loomis]

Hi Guys,
I learned a neat repair for loose lyre dowels recently.  After making sure the joint is tight again (in my case I clamped the lyre to the bench top), drill several holes for drywall screws around the perimeter of the dowel so that the screw holes run straight down the joint between the dowel and the lyre top (or bottom).  If you like, you can then wick thin CA into the joint by putting some into these holes.  After countersinking, drive the screws into the holes.  The screw threads will simultaneously engage both the dowel and the top, thereby locking the whole thing in place.  It seems pretty indestructible!

Todd Loomis

From: pianoarts at tx.rr.com
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 20:44:20 -0500
To: caut at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [CAUT] lyre disassembly








No one has mentioned the option of doweling horizontally, thru the upper lyre top, into the lyre post, and on thru to the other side...a 3" ish length  drywall screw can be sent thru the back, counter sunk, and hidden from view...won't come apart.



Dan Reed

pianoarts at tx.rr.com





On Apr 1, 2009, at 3:24 PM, McNeilTom at aol.com wrote:



In a message dated 4/1/2009 3:26:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, fssturm at unm.edu writes:

I guess you do saturation at all the contacting surfaces?That's right.  And sometimes I drill into the unseen part of a joint with a very small drill to encourage penetration of the CA to a certain area.

In any case, I do think driving the dowels out is better than prying apart, as you control which dowel(s) you are addressing. I have found that prying can have unintended consequences in terms of loosening what was tight and even causing splitting. Driving is faster, too, and exerts the force precisely where it is needed, and in the right direction. And the impact breaks the friction better than pressing.Yes, indeed!


 

    ~  Tom McNeil, RPT  ~

Vermont Piano Restorations

 





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