[CAUT] S&S Key Bushings

[Chris Solliday]

I like your way Fred and it was similar to my own until I found VSPro. I
think the heat works until it doesn't, read not predictable, unless you know
what kind of glue you are dealing with. I just have found the VS Profelt
safer and easier for me. Let me know how you like the results. Of course you
don't have to do additional lubing with the VSPro so it saves alittle time.
I will probably see if we can get the time down. I honestly have only done
the cold cauls overnight and the heated ones in the field since I had a bad
experience with trying to hasten the cold cauls by first running a hot caul
through the mortise. It was probably just the particular (unknown) glue (or
too much solution or too hot a caul or ?) but my experience was similar to
Jon's.
Best regards,
Chris
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fred Sturm" <fssturm at unm.edu>
To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings


> On Oct 30, 2008, at 10:31 AM, Chris Solliday wrote:
>
> > I would not recommend using heat in general with sizing solutions
> > although
> > some glues can take it and the heat may provide a quicker process
> > overall.
>
>
> Hi Chris,
> Thanks for the info about VS Profelt and its ingredients. I have
> ordered some, and will see how it compares with my own "standard
> method" - which does use heat. I agree that use of heat may cause
> problems if you aren't careful, but as long as you are paying
> attention it can be done safely  (a little experimentation with one or
> two keys will reveal potential problems).
> I posted about my method a few years back, but maybe I should do a
> quick repeat. Briefly, keys off the frame, in Spurlock clamps. Apply
> steam as if removing bushings, but only enough to expand the felt
> (keep the travel steam iron moving, keep your eye on the condition of
> the bushings). Follow immediately with heated caul (temperature
> controlled). A very quick (half second or less) plunge into each
> mortise to press the felt flat, followed by going back through the set
> a little slower (up to one second). This both dries and irons/fits the
> felt, and, in my usually dry climate, I can essentially put the keys
> right back on the frame the same day (after doing other tasks like
> brushing and lubing knuckles, scuffing hammer tails, etc). I have
> found that one second of a caul in a mortise doesn't cause problems of
> glue wicking into felt and the like.
> Whatever we do to re-fluff the felt, I think lubrication is really
> the key to longevity. All my keypins get McLube, all bushings get
> powdered teflon. The difference in longevity is very obvious over a
> period of years. Thanks to Newton Hunt for pushing that point
> repeatedly. Polished, un-nicked, lubricated pins + well-fit,
> lubricated, ironed bushings = nice feeling keyboard for a long time,
> even with heavy wear. [Attention to fine detail = better results in
> general.]
>
> Regards,
> Fred Sturm
> University of New Mexico
> fssturm at unm.edu
>
>