On 6/5/07 5:22 PM, "Ron Nossaman" <rnossaman at cox.net> wrote: > "When an elastic material, such as steel, is loaded at > ordinary temperature, it deforms in proportion to load almost > simultaneously with the loading. Thereafter, the load may > apparently act on the material for an indefinitely long period > without causing any further appreciable change in dimensions. > Even if the material is stressed above it's elastic limit, > after an immediate deformation there appears to be no further > change in dimensions until there is some change in load." snip > "At room temperatures, creep is of no practical significance > in steels, but does reach measurable proportions in such > metals as lead, tin, and zinc." Hi Ron, I dunno. Those phrases "appreciable change in dimensions" and "no practical significance" might be loaded (along with "measurable proportions": who's measuring, and to what accuracy?). Could be "not significant in 99% of all applications, but there's enough creep to cause 100 cents of pitch drop in piano strings over the course of a year, and another 100 cents over the next 20." Just the skeptic in me, and, possibly, years of experience. Of course, I could be wrong, and I could be misinterpreting my "years of experience." But it sure would be nice to tie down one of these people who write this kind of stuff and ask some very precise questions. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico PS In answer to the original question, I chip the piano to pitch (aurally, rapidly), then chip to 25 cents sharp. I come back next day and chip again to 25 cents sharp. Then conform the strings to the duplex and bridge pins, using a brass tool of my own making, similar to the Wurlitzer "false beat eliminator" sold by Schaff. This "conforming" work is done in a firm but not jerky way. In some cases I slide the tool along the string toward the bearing point. Other times I just lean hard - use the whole body as opposed to a lot of arm strength. Generally the pitch is now a bit below standard. I pull again to 25 cents sharp, then conform strings to front bearing points, using a Strate-mate, the same brass tool, and a string hook where needed. Piano is "reasonably stable" at this point. I prefer to give it a week or so to let things settle before doing a reasonably fine tuning, then level strings, then install dampers. I have been pleased with the results of this system over the years. Seems to yield reasonably rapid settling - and it makes damper regulation and hammer mating much faster. Doing the string leveling with a level with the dampers out is fast and accurate. Actually, I guess that was the second question, about full stringing as opposed to Mark Cramer's firsts question about 100 cents sharp. I sometimes tune a replacement string 100 cents sharp, and come back a day or a week later and tune it to pitch. Seems to work well for stability. In emergency (before concert breakage) conditions, I'll tune to 100 cents sharp, do some rapid massaging (conform to bearing points, but also heat the string), and lower to pitch at the very last moment. Jim Arledge swears by tuning a full set of bass strings 100 cents sharp, then coming back next day. He demonstrated that at Nashville, on the convention hotel bar piano. (Talking about replacing only the bass strings, not a full restring)
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