CA ing bridge pins

[Jeff Stickney]

Fred, Horace, Ron, and Wim,
	Thanks for your replies.  I have some thin CA on order from Pianotek and
plan to give a try.  I have one piano that gets rather negatively affected
by low RH% in the winter, and am anxious to see if it helps with the false
beats.  I'm pretty convinced that it's not a long-term concern (or even
short-term with a little heat applied) to pull the pins if needed, but it's
an interesting question about the longevity of the benefits if the bond is
not in fact a real strong one.  Do some use heat to help pull the CA down
around the pin, or does the thin stuff do this well enough on it's own?

Jeff Stickney, RPT
University of Montana
jpstickney@montanadsl.net


> -----Original Message-----
> From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of
> Fred Sturm
> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 9:22 AM
> To: College and University Technicians
> Subject: RE: CA ing bridge pins
>
>
> Jeff,
> 	I haven't actually followed myself up on this yet, but
> I don't think it
> will be a problem. My experience with thin CA is that the
> bond is not a
> tremendously strong one. If I had trouble removing CA'd
> bridge pins, I
> think tapping them all first would break any glue bond. I
> guess I should
> experiment with an old bridge or piece of maple to be sure.
> Lots of folks
> have been epoxying bridge pins in for a good while, which I
> think would be
> more problematic.
> Regards,
> Fred Sturm
> University of New Mexico
>
> --On Sunday, October 19, 2003 10:28 PM -0600 Jeff Stickney
> <jpstickney@montanadsl.net> wrote:
>
> > List,
> > 	Sorry to jump in a little late on this, but I have one
> question regarding
> > use of CA on bridge pins.  It sounds like a great solution for loose
> > pins/false beats, the same as in a pin block (not the false
> beats part),
> > but as Dan Levitan brought up in the August issue of the
> PTJ, is this a
> > problem for the rebuilder when it comes time to pull the
> pins?  Does the
> > CA lose it's grip over time, and the pins come out easily,
> or is this a
> > potential problem in the long term?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jeff Stickney, RPT
> > University of Montana
> > jpstickney@montanadsl.net
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]On
> Behalf Of
> >> Wolfley, Eric (wolfleel)
> >> Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 7:48 AM
> >> To: 'College and University Technicians'
> >> Subject: RE: CA ing bridge pins
> >>
> >>
> >> Hi Ron,
> >>
> >> Is this the "Royal Onyx" glue found in the "Recreational
> >> Adhesives" section
> >> of the website? Its described as glue designed for gluing
> >> golf club heads
> >> on.
> >>
> >> I like the concept of "recreational adhesives"....kind of
> >> brings up the idea
> >> of unmentionable pranks.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >> Eric Wolfley
> >> Head Piano Technician
> >> Cincinnati College-Conservatory of Music
> >> University of Cincinnati
> >> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Ron Koval [mailto:drwoodwind@hotmail.com]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 9:30 AM
> >> To: caut@ptg.org
> >> Subject: CA ing bridge pins
> >>
> >>
> >> Hi all
> >>
> >> I've only got a few years experience with this, but I'd
> >> suggest you check
> >> out the rubberized super glue sold made by Bob Smith
> >> industries.  My source
> >> is the local hobby shop, but they are online
> >> http://bsiadhesives.com
> >>
> >> This glue is jet black, (I've used it for finish repairs,
> >> too) so it blends
> >> in with the top of the bridge.  It only comes in medium
> viscosity.  I
> >> believe that it is less likely to fracture with humidty
> >> shifts.  Like with
> >> any CA, the key is careful application, good lighting, and
> >> ventilation, if
> >> you are sensitive to the fumes.
> >>
> >> Ron Koval
> >> Concordia U
> >>
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