String breakage (& yamaha butts)

[Ed Sutton]

One way to replace flange cords (full set)
Remove and number parts.
Set up your center pin pusher.
Hook a piece of wire to one side of your bench.
As you remove the flanges, string them on the wire through the bushings in
order 1-88. Thin soft wire is best.
Hook the other end of the wire to the other side of your bench.
Now, as you go through the steps of removing and replacing the cords, slide
the flanges along the wire.  You can move quickly and keep 88 flanges in
order.  Use medium CA glue. Spit on the cord to kick the glue. Two brads in
the bench will control the length of the cord, one in the screw hole, one to
loop the cord around.
(While the hammers are out of their flanges, this is a good time to clamp
them into bunches and gang file them.)
When you reassemble the hammers & flanges, go up one pin size and use a
Mannino broach to resize the bushings.
The advantage is that the hammer alignment and travel will be close to
perfect if you reassemble with the original parts.
ES

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Tanner" <jtanner@mozart.sc.edu>
To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: String breakage (& yamaha butts)


> >By the way, does anybody have a dandy way to put new cord on Yamaha butt
> >flanges?  I've got some U-1s starting to break cords, so got some sets of
> >flanges & cord, figuring on replacing a set or two, & then putting the
new
> >cord on the flanges, replacing some more, etc.  Unless I find a better
way
> >to put the stuff on, I'm better off buying the sets of flanges, even
though
> >they've about doubled in price.  Any ideas?
> >
> >Otto
>
> I'd like to know, why is it that this design is so much of an improvement
> over the spring rail design that it is worth making it more difficult to
> remove and replace hammer butts, except to sell parts when the cord
breaks?
>
> (Hey, are these covered under warranty?)
>
> Even Steinway is using these now, and with the jack stop rail, rather than
> the felt on the catcher, accessing the butt flange screws becomes an even
> more difficult challenge.  Somewhat like the Baldwin damper upstop rail
> screws being located directly behind the sostenuto brackets and you've got
> to get in there with a phillips.
>
> Got no tricks.  The time or two I've replaced these cords I had to wait
> quite a while while they dried.  Only had white glue in my case.  By the
> way, I assume you know that you can get this cord from your local fish and
> tackle shop.
> Jeff
>
>
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