shank/screw clearance

[Mark Cramer]

"Throwing" the shanks revealed contact that pressing the shanks into the
rests did not.

There was a good 5mm of surplus thread, so I had Jeremy remove all 88
screws, reduce them by 3mm on the grinder, and re-point them on the sander
for easy threading.

We left the buttons in place, so I was able to continue with the action
while the screws were
being shortened.

There is now ample clearance, with the option of peeling the rests, if needs
be.

Thanks Newton!

Mark Cramer,
Brandon University

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-caut@ptg.org [mailto:owner-caut@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Newton
Hunt
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 9:58 AM
To: caut@ptg.org
Subject: Re: shank/screw clearance


The best test is to throw the hammer down as fast as you can to see if it
will hit
the screw.  Peeling is not uncommon but you only need a little clearance for
proper
function.  Peeling could cause the shank to hit the screw because the hammer
could
come off the string at near one hundred miles an hour.  Most likely about 50
mph but
give yourself a little safety margin there.

If one screw is a problem try screwing it deeper into the button or you can
nip off
the top a bit or saw off some at the other end.

When they get it wrong we have to make it so.

		Newton