Dear List, I have this same problem with one of the letters missing. The solution was easy. The hobby shops sell bronzing liquid in several colors. I painted in the depression with a color that matched fairly closely, and finished the match with dry pigments mixed in wax. The match is very good, especially from the first row of seats in the concert hall. No fumes .. easy to reverse if you mess up on the first try. Ken Eschete Northwestern University >Once you pull the applique off, there will be a considerable 'impression' >left in the finish. The easiest thing would be to rip it out, fill, sand, >finish, rub-out. >Easy enough for a shop setting but real troublesome for a public setting. > >Get the dealer to do this since it is brand new. Complain to S&S. > >You could always just pull it out and leave it blank. A black on black >effect, trey kewl. >Stylized embossing in the finish, shadow effect. Make it work, not make work. > >I've left 'em blank, > >Jon Page > > >At 04:13 PM 04/10/2001 -0600, you wrote: >>Well, I guess I'll assume it was applied on a base coat, then sprayed >>over and sanded to "reveal," like most of these thangs. Howsomever, the >>sander person probably got carried away over the logo, and sanded a >>little too far. It feels like the logo is higher than the finish >>everywhere, not just top and bottom where it is curling away. >> The gummy substance makes me think cyano probably would just be a >>temporary fix - contaminated surfaces. Every time I have tried cyano on >>similar brass thangs before, I have had less than absolute success. >>Maybe it would stay "better," but usually would still tick up a bit. >>Here on the side of the piano, one person brushing against a little >>stick up will pull it and bend it beyond gluing. And there are going to >>be plenty of people brushing against it. >> Probably the only real solution is rip it off, sand smooth, put >>a new >>one on, spray the area until enough lacquer is built up to cover, then >>sand again to reveal. Question now is, do I want to go to that trouble >>myself, or go to the even more trouble of dealing with the dealer, >>trying to schedule times in the hall, babysitting, etc. Maybe I could >>throw it in the hall manager's lap. ;) Better yet, the department >>administrator's. She needs something to do. >>Thanks for the responses, >>Fred >> >>Jon Page wrote: >> > It is applied prior to the topcoats, then through sanding it is reveled. >> > You could try super glue to get it stuck back in place (watch for drips). >> > You could also remove it and fill the area with lacquer and an artist's >> brush, >> > then sand smooth to blend. Being new, it is a warranty problem. >> > >> > Let the dealer mess with it. >> > >> > Jon Page >> >>Greg Newell wrote: >> >Super glue to the rescue!!!!! At least that's what someone >> recommended >here a >> >while back. >> >> >Greg >> >>Richard Brekne wrote: >> > >> > Tear it off and clean up the finish. Sheesshh have they really gone >> > away from inlay ?? Things just aint what they used to be. >> > >> > -- >> > Richard Brekne >> > RPT, N.P.T.F. >> > Bergen, Norway >> > mailto:rbrekne@broadpark.no >> > -- Ken Eschete Phone 847/467-6970 Director of Keyboard Maintenance Northwestern University School of Music Fax 847/491-5260 711 Elgin Road Evanston, Il 60208 k-eschete@northwestern.edu
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