Hi, John, Rereading this stuff, I really do not think that this is a hammer problem (and would probably leave them alone) I keep coming back to your #19 - > > > 19. checked the key bed with a straightedge front to back. I found that > > > the board just beyond the board on which the balance rail glides rest was > > > high. Chalked it where it passes under the front to back board of > the key > > > frame which is just under notes 50-53 and found that is was just barely > > > touching. Sanded key frame there until there was adequate clearance. > > > Playing the note by pushing up on the whippin from underneath with my > > > finger without moving the key still produces the THUD, so I guess that > > > eliminates the keyframe anyway. I am not sure that what you describe does eliminate the keyframe. The forefinishing process is very different than it used to be. There is much less attempt to create the opposing compound, complex curves than there used to be. It is possible that there are other areas of the keyframe which are touching and transmitting this sound through the keyframe/keybed structure. The keybed should not be dead level at any point save across the width of the area in which it supports the back rail. At all other points, it should describe an arc of varying radii as you move your straight-edge from the bass through the treble. The arc should have a larger radius at the ends of the keybed, and a shorter one in the middle (compensating for the slight rise in the middle of the area supporting the front rail of the keyframe..well, ok, the one that used to be part of the construction, anyway). The keyframe should be similarly concave, so that the arcs of each are opposed, not together. The whole is pulled together under tension created at the front rail by the cheek blocks, at the center rail by the glides, and, at the back rail by the mass of the action and (contrary to what seems to be popular opinion) the dags. (Very) nominally, the center of the keybed, along a line roughly through the glide supports, will be 2mm lower than the front and back rails. The back rail will be dead level. The front rail will, perhaps, have the traditional 2mm rise in the middle which is distributed evenly out to the ends. That was the bad old days. Now days, there is often simply what amounts to a coarse hacking at the last several inches of the keybed as it approaches the cheek blocks. If that is the case, it will need to be smoothed out before any real bedding of the keyframe can take place. I would start with working on the keybed. The reason for this is that the newer keyframes are flexible enough already, and to not need to be made any more so (than is absolutely necessary). Avoid the temptation to work on the keyframe first, and deal with its foundation, the keybed. OK, I admit, this is really a long shot; but that seems to me to be the point you have reached. This one is a real hairball. My orange longhair cat would be proud. Best. Horace
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